The day we left fo Zanzibar, I took my Dramanine like a good little boy - but it had little effect. Instead of enjoying the air-conditioned first class amenities, I stayed on the back, bottom and outermost part of the baot - going through the color spectrum of levels of green until we finally arrived.
Instantly we were bombarded with touts - nothing was stolen thank God. These people do NOT understand the word 'NO'! We made our way to Bandari, dropped our stuff and ventured out. Stone Town is amazing with it's winding, cobblestone streets, shops and streed food. People continued to bmbard us with offers of diving excursions and weed, lol. That night we had an 'okay' dinner but then discovered the street food festival that happens by the waterfront every night at 6. Tables piled high with grilled octopus, red snapper kababs, lobster, falafel and even freshly squeezed cane juice. We promised our sellers to indulge the next night. We ended the day with a rather expensive beer at Mercury's - named after Queen's frontman. Who knew he was born here? lol
The next day we explored, took pics, swam bought scarves and waited for 6:00. By the time it rolled around, we were a bit concered about the turnover rate of the fish on an island that has een without electricity for over 2 months. We nixed eating on the waterfront and ended up settling for chapatis filled ith chips and cabbage. Yum. That and a Sprite for 2 bucks..? can't complain.
The following morning we headed to Nungwe on the north of the island. This is my favorite place so far. Turquoise waters that beg to be snorkled and enough local culture to keep one occupied. I have never snorkled before but have definitely discovered a new passion. It's like you are flying around in a giant acquarium - I've seen the most amazing things. Nick and I also went to a local sea turtle rescue rpeserve where we petted and fed them. It was brilliant. Today we snorkled again but the waters were a bit rough and we were still pooped from yesterday. We are heading back to Stone Town tomorrow to find lodging for the music festival then off to the south eatern part of the island for a few days.
2/8 - 2/11:
We got up early, had breakfast and walked to the road - just in time to catch a daladala back to Stone Town. Once there, we had lunch and spent a few hours trying to find a place to stay from the 10th-12th. It took some time and was ridiculously hot. Around 3, we caught a ride to Jambiani, or the SHIT HOLE, as we could come to be known to us. Not really as beautiful as Nungwe and MUCH less to do. Even at high tide, you had to walk a k out in the water in order to swim.
The daladala tried in vane to overcharge us and when we informed one of the touts where it was we wanted to go, he proclaimed very boisterously that it was closed down, not working, not open. As we passed it on the way to HIS suggestion, we noticed it was fully operational. I should be used to being lied to at this point, but it still gets irritating. Have I mentioned that Zanzibar has been without elecitricity for over 2 months? Yes. The cable (donated by Norway)) from Dar (now 40 years old) corroded a few months back. Typical African solution? WAit unti someone swoops in to help. Norway, et again, is installing another cable. Africa would fall to pieces if left to its own devices.
We stayed 2 nights in Jambiani - much ado about nothing. There were puppies to play with a cute bar man to flirt with - but that's where the excitement ended. Yesterday we watied in the rain for transport, then headed back to the Stone. Halfway back, I was jolted awake by the skidding of tires. I turned in time to see a bus rear end a daladala heading the other direction. Caught between the 2 was one of the workers. He had tried to jump out of the way, but his left leg got the brunt of the blow. We stopped and a few guys jumped out and ran back to see what's up.
Next thing we knew, we are turning around and going back towards the accident. Unbeknownst to us, we were picking u the injured man to assist him to the hospital. The moans and screams from this poor guy were appropirately deafening. His lower leg had recived a compound fracture and was twisted at a grotesque angle. Many more jumped out of the combi at that point to make room. What disturbed me the most was the 'non' attention to his leg that was being paid to him upon getting him into the daladala. Shoving him in, foot of broken leg getting caught on the door and various objects - twisting the leg further in the absolute wrong direction - intensifying his agony.
Adding insult to (no pun intended) injury, a muslim woman on board went into wailing upon seeing him. His screams mounted, hers escalated - for the next 15 minutes. Somehow the piercing shrills made me focus and I supported the guy and held his hand for the ride. Once there, I assisted him into the hospital. It was all very surreal. Once back in the daladala it was business as usualy, money being passed around payment for the lurid transport we had just experienced. I shakingly walked to our dingy room and took a shot of cane rum from Eric's bag. A very eventful morning.
We then walked to the market in search of avocado and chapati and were over joyed to also discover fresh cilantro. A good, very good, lunch. We then ran errands the remainder of the day and checked out the venue for the following day. Dinner was an amazing chicken sandwichg followed by watching the mzungus (white people) on the waterfront. Oh Africa, just what do you have in store for us next?
2/12 - 2/17:
Today we ran a few errands which included getting our tickets for the Sauti de Busara. I sort of dredded spending the money but was also looking forward to it. I'mWAY over budget onthis trip and it's making me a bit nervous. We then held ourselves up in the rom until the parade - which was sort of uneventful. Some loud music and a few street performers. We followed them into the fort, found a nice spot on the grass and enjoyed an amazing night of music - it wasn't too loud or too crowded. (things I dont enjoy which proves I am getting old lol). I left before Nick and Eric and spent a restless night on the floor (it was my turn) being eaten alive by fleas.
Today, Natalie and Heather arrived! It was great to see them. Its hard to believe that with all this travelling, we are only overlapping a day with them. We showed them arund Stone Town a bit and then it was off to day 2 of the festival. I had chosed to pass because I wanted to save money and besides, I could sit on the waterfront and listen. Earlier that day I had touched base with a gay dude who lives there and was planning on having a drink with him.
While waiting, I was approached by a really cute young local. He was being exceptionally flirty. Johan then arrived and we went to Livingstone's. A nice place but all white people, lol. During our converstaion, he told me aboutthe climate of the island as far as homos go. He also mentioned that the boy who was talking to me was a prostitute, lol. So where I am finally getting my 'gay' fix and it's partly with this somewhat racist South African and earlier with someone who would have charged me for sex, lol. THEN!!! In the middle of our drink, Natalie sms's me that they have figured out a way to sneak me into the festival because there is a cute (and gay mind you) (and lonely, lol) PCV from Tanzania inside. Here I am thinking the universe is opening all the doors for me...NOT!
Once inside, I meet 3 cute guys who could all realistically be gay and I get my flirt on...to no avail. Finally it's pointed out which one IS gay and he turns out to be the one that ignored me the most, lol. I'm officially returning my 'gaydar' to Macy's - it doesnt work!
The next day we were heading off the island early so we said goodbye to the girls and headed to the dock. The ride back was very pleasant and my stomach stayed in one place. We had made a contact through the girls for a free place to stay, so we made our way ther. Jean, a US embassy worker, lives in an amazing house with AC, washer/dryer, etc. It was like being stateside..we stayed 3 days!
During those days we bought our tickets to Cairo (money), our tickets to Arusha (more money) and shipped some things back to the states (much more money!). I really am getting nervous about the budget and the more time I spend in Africa, it seems the less I'mgonna be able to do in Europe...oh well. Our last full day in Dar we were lucky enough to spend it with Ruth (who flew in from Uganda) and Danielle and Julia who were metting up with her to travel around a bit. It was great to see other pcvs and catch up.
2/18 - 2/23:
Once again, up early to catch a taxi to the bus station, this time we took a small rikshaw type thing...was quite fun. The bus was long and arduous but we were rewarded in Moshi with a spectacular view of Kilimanjaro. People say you can only see it clearly a few times a year - we were very fortunate. We tried to find the 'Golden Showers' restaurant to no avail.
The next day was overcast so we decided to take off to Arusha. Once there, Margaret (our couch surfing hostess) picked us up and took us to her house. Over the next few nights were were overwhelmed by her and Charles hospitality. We nixed going to the Serenghetti and Ngorongoro because of cost.
On our last full day we tried to attend the Rwanded genocite trials (which are still going on) but didn't have dress clothes. Ironically, we ran into Natalie and Heather yet again coming out as we were trying to enter. After a little fewllowship, we went to buy tickets for Nairobi, had some lunch, then returned to the house.
The next day, after lunch, they drove us to the bus stop and we headed for Kenya - on a fairly empty bus (which never happens). We met 2 women travelling togethewr - 1 lived a few miles from Nick on Long Island! As we got closer to Kenya, we say more and more Masaii, in full garb and as the landscape changed, I felt we were driving into 'The Lion King'.
We arrived in Nairobi, which was a bit scary cause we hadn't nailed down accomodation with our next couchsurfing host yet. Fortunately (as the universe continues to protect us) I got ahold of her minutes before she boarded transport back to her house - which is a ways out of town.
We took a taxi to the outskirts of the city and planted oursevles with Anena and friends for the next 10 days! By far, this is the coolest CS experience I've had. she is this fabulous woman who came to Nairobi a few years ago to volunteer for a few weeks and then decided to stay and find work. She is trying (on her own mind you) to work with the local prostitutes who work the truckstop near her house. Not to persuade them to stop, but to counsel, offer support and education - it's SO non-judgemental. I envy her ability to do that. All thistime in Africa and I still have my judgement about many things. She also houses other volunteers and 4 Kenya teenagers live with her and she pays for their schooling - it seems to work just fine. She also has a housekeeper (a Muslim woman) who is amazing but it was funny, we kept hugging her hello every day we saw her only to discover she is not supposed to touch other men, lol...oh cultural boundaries...pishaw!
We also spent a day with Cheryl and Amanda visiting some of the local, more touristy type things. We saw baby elephants at an elephant rescure sanctuary, kissed giraffes at a giraffe rescue, then went and fed monkeys (for free) at a local park. They were crazy and climing all over us. Was a very fun day.
So, the last few days we havelaught, cooked, talked about AID in Africa and evenwent to the movies. Eric and I are currently sitting on yuet another bus waiting to go to a small village and volunteer at a school. I could have easily spent the entire time in Nairobi,but this trip is about experience, so here I am - impatiently waiting to leave (we are already 2 hours late) for a 7 hour bus ride to go 200k. I will be OFFICIALLY over eastern Africa in the next few days. Egypt, here I come!
Anena's boyfriend, Austin, who lives and does volunteer work in Mathari (the 2nd largest slum in Nairobi) invited us to a soccer game that was being videotaped by 2 of Anena's other couch surfers. 2 guys from France who are filming a documentary about soccer around the world. It was an outstanding day with tons of kids vying for our attention and then a late lunch and dancing at a bar/club within the area. We were the only whites around and I never felt safer. The fellowship and fun had that night is something I'll remember forever.
2/23-2/25:
Did I say 7 hours? Try 13! Remember,we had gotten up at 5, to hike in and catch a bus that was leaving at 8:30 (supposedly). We get there, get on the bus at 7:30 to secure a seat...the bus doesn't leave until a little after 11. The road was bumpy and slow going at first but thenout of the city,we were rewarded with some of the most beautiful countryside we've seen yet.
The bus is supposed to go straight to where we are being dropped, but instead, the driver stops frequently (very frequently!) to pick up shorter term passengers to make 'extra' money. Several hours later, it began to rain and well, it rained inside the bus! Eric and i were trying our best to stay dry.
As the downpour began to let up a little, we arrived in Awendo at 6:00 pm. It's discouraging when you've travelled for 7 hours and only gone 300k! Once here, we walked around this place looking for 'west end' hardware so we could met up with the sister of the family we were staying with - during which time we are frantically smsing Mary back in Nairobi to help. Around 7:30 we had made contact and were in the front of a truck being hauled the 13k to the village. The dirt road was complete mud and the going was slow. Eventually, we got stuck (of course) and walked the remaining 4k to the house in oatmeal type mud.
Once at the house we had to ay with the grandmother before entering - it is now 10:30pm. We sit in this kerosine lamp lighted room on an uncomfortable couch whille they prepare our room. at 11 we were taken to where we were meant to sleep - a wasp, mosquite and bat infested building. We were given a bucket of warm water to bathe in.
At this point we cram down some peanut butter sandwiches - enough food to take our doxy and prepare for bed. We had only ust crawled in when they came to get us for 'dinner'. I am exhausted at this point having been up for 18 hours..but alas...we return to the house and sit and wait (nodding in and out of sleep) for food. It becamse painfully oviousl to us that the entire family had waited for our arrival to eat together - having expected us many hours earlier...FAIL!
At 1:00 am (yes!) food was presented and we ravenously inhaled it. Then, wanting to head to slumber, we were told we must have tea. I'm sitting there wondering how much longer I can hang on before bolting to my pillow. At last,we said our good nights and at 2 am, 21 hours after our journey began, sleep encompassed us.
The next morning we awoke around 8:30, washed a bit, had breafast with the family (it's now 11 am) and walked into the village to visit the primary school without really knowing what was expected of us. Upon arrival we discovered they had been waiting all morning and we were meant to actually teach class. I was amazed at how easily I stepped into that role. No fear, no plan...just started talking to the children (who's English was actually pretty good) and taught for the next 2 hours - it was amazing!
We thenbroke for lunch, went home, then around 3 headed to another school todo the same thing only here,we were bombarded with pleas for money or aid. I've lived here long enough and have come accostomed to being the 'rich' white man that I handled the situation modestly (I'm wriign this at 7:30 in the morning in Nakuru and Eric, just walked in from last night where he informs me he had a 'good' time, lol...lucky bastard). We ended the time there by privately answering some questions about HIV with 2 of the male teachers. Answering questions they have been afraid to ask..Eric and I were in the zone.
We then (thankfull) took a motorcyle back to the house because a downour ensued. We read and chilled a bit before dinner, fellowshipped with the family then got to bed around 11. The next morning we got up early,had breakfast,said goodbye to the family, got motorcycle rides back to Awendo where we grabbed a matatu to Kisii. There we got transport to Nakuru. We should be used to touts grabbing us and yelling, trying to get us to come with thembut when I am carrying all my shit with me, I just get nervous. We eventually negotiated a ride and waited for it to fill up. 5 hours later we arrived (in the rain) and stopped at Tipsy restaraunt for a greasy burger and indian food. Ironically they were playing Rick Astley - a singer we'd been mocking this entire trip.
After dinner, we walked around to find a place to sleep before settling on the Mt. Sinai Hotel. We asked for the rooftop room (as per Lonely Planet's suggestion) and were pleasantly suprised to discover that it was an actual room - ON THE ROOFTOP!. We could see the entire city around us and the mountains in thedistance...beautiful.
We then decided to venture out for a beer. We found another hotel with a bar and we watched a soccer game -that I actually found myself being interested in. Teh next room was playing music so we decided to check out the dance situation. There was no floor, buteveryone kept dancing around their own tables. Once again, noticed the homoerotic way that men danced together. 2 guys in particular were 'getting it on' and the next thing I know we were being pulled over to their table. The next hour they got progressively more drunk and the one proceeded to grope the hell out of me...on tope of that, they were soldiers (they showed us their IDs). I know the guy was not gay - but it was the most forward anyone had been with me in Africa. Quite an interesting evening. Soon after I returned to the hotel to sleep and Eric remained behind to talk to the girl they had forced on him, lol. He didn't come home last night.
2/25-2/27:
This morning we left Nakuru after breakfast and were pleasandlty suprised with how fast the trip was. Back to Nairobi in about 2 hours. I got off at Westlands Mall in order to meet Nikeos (a guy from online), for lunch. He turned out to be a great guy and we hung out a bit before he had to go back to work. He's a safari guide who was actually featured on 'Long Way Down' - the motocycle show with Ewan Mcgregor. Now I'll have to watch it!
Back at the house, we had dinner, layed cards and chilled. Yesterday most of the house went to Mathari for a soccer match and I stayed back to do laundry. Also, nikos and I were supposed to get together again. When I hadn't heart from him by 11, I showered and headed into town to sp a bit and use the internet. I then touched base with Anena and we met at the combie rink to head home. Amanda and I cooked pasta for dinner, I gave Anena an hour's massage and then it was time for bed.
12/28 - 3/2:
Our last day in Nairobi was a chilled one with most of the mornng being wasted playing cards. We then all decided to go to the movies - we all saw different things. Afterwards, hile waiting for everyone, I found myself flirting with a cute African guy. Finally, I got up the courage to go and talk to him...but alas, it was my last night and I was going to spend it with friends.
The rest of the night was glorious with lots of laughter and photos until 2 am rolled around and we took our taxi to the airport. At 5:30 our flight ook off and we slept until we landed in Cairo, 4 hours later. WHAT a city this is! It has the same chaotic, rushed feel as other places in Africa but underneath it's surface is a serenity/safety. Our first day we explored and enjoyed amazing food (and cheap!)
Our first full day we headed to the Egyptian museum to check out tut. The exhibits were amazing - to see thousands of years of history - wow. And I got a student discount with my PC ID, lol. That evening we returned to the same place for dinner. The biggest thing I have noticed here is how open and affectionate the men are...ironically in a contry where being gay is still illegal. It's quite strange and I kept getting 'cruised' which either means I am attractive or its a ploy of some kind...haven't quite figured that out.
3/3-3/4:
Today it was off to the pyramids. Oddly enough, they were located directly within the suburb of Giza. I mean, DIRECTLY in it. I guess I thought it would be a long camel rie into the desert before we crested a dune and there they are. Wrong. Also, it's so completely commercial with shop after shop selling resin replicas of the sphinx for 1 US dollar. In addition, people throw their trash everywhere - even down in open holes that lead to the tombs. Sad really. As I stand in awe of the size and age of these strauctures, I kick around pepsi bottle caps and cigarette butts. I'm sure the pharoahs never envisined this for their mighty pryamids - a bunch of foreignors with cameras and falafel.
We did do a very American thing by having pizza at Pizza Hut while gazing at the Sphyinc. We had to...had to.
Afterwards we headed to Coptic Cairo which is a collection of Christian churchs and masoleums. Quite beautiful in itself. From there, we returned to town. We ate leftover pizza then went to smoke some sheesha...well,, Nick and Eric anyways. We also ended up checkng out a movie, 'The Book of Eli' - we loved it.
Yesterday we headed to some craft markets which ended up being a bust. I got a haircut and a shave (worst experience ver!), bought our train ticktes to Alexandria (where I currently sit writing) and explored more. I met up with a guy from online while the boys used the internet. Mohamed is a gay civil engineer and he filled me in on what the gay culture was like in Egypt - which doesn't really amount to anything. On our way back through, he's going to take us to see 'Alice in Wonderland'. So far, I love Cairo. It's a fairly clean and dfeinitely a safe city. The nile is beautiful though polluted. If I had found a coucsurfing place I would stay here another week. We are on our way to Alexandria now which should be amazing in itself.
3/5-3/9:
I LOVED Alexandria! Not only was it beautiful and on the Mediteranean, but it was super cheap. Hell, our first night we spent $3.52 on our room and it had an amazing view. We spend most of the time exploring the city...the old fort where the light house used to be, the pillar of Pompey and the catacombs - beautful. We stayed 1 extra day to chill out band then headed back on Monday. We also saw the newly built library of Alexandria...outstanding!
Once back in Cairo, we hit the mall with Mohamed to see the flick...in 3D no less. We were all knd of taken back by the opulence of it all. I mean, I'd been in shoping malls around Africa but for some reason this one in particular was so over the top that it reminded me of home....US, that is. Just a strange feeling. Yesterday, though, we returned to the land of plnty to see 'Avatar' and pick up a guide book for Mediterranean Europe. The movie and company were good. Mohamed then took us to a Syrian restaurant where we enjoyed some locl fair. Tasty. tomorrow is a chill day before heading to St. Katherine's on the Sinai peninsula.
3/10-3/14:
Today, we slept in, read, played cards, watched yet another movie and then returned o our beds for the following travel day. In the morning we had breakfas, then caught a cab to the bus station. In typical Africa fashion, we arrived an hour ahead of schedule to not have ou bus leave for an hour after it was supposed to. The trip to Al-Milga was supposed to be 5-6 hours, instead it took 8 - mechanical problems and all that. Most of the scenery was desert until we hit the red sea which was beautiful. We arrived at St. Katherine's Protectorate around 8:30, made our way to the Bedoin campe, found it to be full, ha tea with the owner and slept outside by the fire. None of us slept very well between the cold and the mosquitos. They had brought us plenty of blankets, but they all smelled of camel so we chose the cold over the stink.
The next morning we shifted to a real room and then got a ride to the monastary. It was supposed to e open 9-12 bu upon arrival they told us only 11-12...it was around 9:30. St. katherin'es houses a supposed' descendant of the burning bush. Nick and I decided to attempt the climb up Mt. Sinai while we waited. Ha! What made us think we could do a 2.5 horu climb in an hour was beyond me. After many breaks, we arrived at the summit and were greeted with some of the most spectacular mountainscapes I've ever seen. Vast and beautiful. I prayed - what else do you do on Mt. Sinai - and chilled. No wonder Moses spoke to a burning bush - he was high from the climb and altitude!
We descended (much faster than ascending) and having missed the bush, started walking back to our camp. Eric arrived shortly after, having been on his own little adventure. The rest of the day we rested and made arrangements for transport to Dahab.
The next morning, the trip was short and sweet and after checking into the 'Fighting Kangaroo', e went out for lunch. This place is beautiful but very touristy. In between the thousands of dive shops are stores selling tacky refridgerator magnets and restaraunts all sporting the 'best of' on their menu. If that isn't bad enough, you cannot leaisurely stroll along the beachfront because EVERY business owner is vying for your money. I get so tired of saying 'no thank you' only to have th epeople continue to follow and coax. We finally found streed food for 3 bucks compared to the 40 we would have spent elsewhere.
Yesterday, I was up early and read to snorkel. The water was chill but amazingly clear and once underneat, we were rewarded with some of the best coral reefs, RIGHT off shore! It was breathtaking. I saw lion fish, parrot fish, sea snakes, a morray eel...phenomenal! Nick and I took a break for lunch and to buy an underwater camera bag for pics. The afternoon was equally rewarding as the morning.
After an exhausting day, I napped and we returned to the same great, cheap place for dinner as the previous night. Tomorrow is a chillaxed day in preparation for our trip to Eliat, Israel. Holy land...here I come.
