Thursday, January 29, 2009

My South African Journey

Monday, December 1 - Friday, December 5:

Yesterday we piled and I do mean PILED into Sarah’s parent’s rented car and headed back to her site. It was fun to watch and listen to them and remember what it was like for us the first time we rode on that road. Their comments and oohs and ahhs. It was also really great to chat with them. They are awesome and Sarah is very lucky to have parents like that. So open and accepting. I realize everyone at some point thinks someone else has it better and that’s not what I mean. I just mean they are really cool people.
Once at her site we unpacked and I tried to contact my ride only to discover it wasn’t coming. I then thought I was going to have to try and hike with all this stuff which would NOT have been fun. I contacted my supervisor and discovered he was heading back from Rundu and would gladly pick me up. We then walked her parents around Nkurenkuru a bit though there was nothing much going on given it was a Sunday. It was still neat to watch their reactions to everything.
When Lyambezi showed up for my ride I discovered Eddie, the couchsurfer from New Orleans in the back. He and I had been making plans for him to come visit my site for a few weeks but I was never sure exactly when he was heading this way. Synchronicity man. We chatted on the drive back and I welcomed him to my place in Mpungu.
The past few days have been great having someone around and yet at the same time I’ve gotten so used to being on my own that I can feel that part of myself wanting my space again. Don’t get me wrong, he’s been a GREAT guest and I’ve never felt like I have to entertain him. He’s a Christian, but very laid back and he’s on this journey of hiking around Africa for about 4-6 months. After he leaves my place next week he begins making his way to Cairo.
My OVCs on Tuesday was great fun! I made them peanut butter sandwiches and we watched Harry Potter and the Scorcerer’s Stone. I then presented them with some school supplies that I was able to purchase thanks to Kim, Becky and Kim’s sister. They had sent me money earlier the past week and now they are going to start collecting donations throughout the coming year from clients in order for me to always have money for the kids. I might even be able to feed them each week. They were really happy!
Yesterday I had a meeting about the garden and I had to be a bit stern with them. The garden is NOT being watered regularly and things are dying. I am honestly worried about what will happen while I am gone for a month, but I hope they will maintain it responsibly.
I have been trying to work out transport for the fruit trees from Rundu and finally nailed down a day when I could have the truck. I then tried to contact the Ministry but with no cell network I had to purchase a phone card and use a pay phone - which is a pain in the ass. The first day the woman told me that Faustinus was out in the bush - IN MPUNGU - and could not be reached. She said she didn’t know what I was talking about (ie. the trees). I then called back the next day and a different woman said she’d check and that I should call back in an hour. I called back and a man answered. He didn’t know what I was talking about and started telling me about the proper procedure of doing things and that I needed to submit things in writing. Blah blah blah… I cut him off and explained that I had done all that and spoken directly to Faustinus. He said that I should wait until Monday when he is back. Next week is my last week and if I wait til then to get the trees then I only have a few days to plant 200 trees on the clinic site. On top of that I am supposed to go to Windhoek for an impression of a crown for replacement AND my money for the theater project is supposed to come in and I want to go there to purchase the equipment. When it rains it pours. Days and days without nothing to do and then BAM! A week of non-stop activity.

Saturday, December 6 (early morning):

An interesting thing happened yesterday. I received a text from either Alex or Christine, probably Christine, though I had erased all the 26ers phone numbers from my cells because they were heading home. She said she had just read my blog for the first time and was sorry that I felt that way about them. It took me a minute to understand what she meant. She said she was going to forward my blog to Dinah and John - though I didn’t really understand why that was necessary.
See…my blog is basically my journal cut and pasted. My journal is my personal experience here in Africa - every part of my personal experience. It does exactly what a journal is supposed to do. You use a journal to emote into and hopefully gain insight into yourself in the process. Most people’s are private and not available for public viewing. I choose to put mine out there for my friends and the world to see because of 2 reasons. 1. Someone might have insight into what I’m feeling and can help me see something I cannot. 2. Someone might be going through the same thing or feeling the same way and it’s nice to know ‘you’re not the only one’ sometimes.
After the text sunk in, I went to this worried, stomach turning place and I thought to myself, what’s the lesson in this? If my experience here is all about personal growth, why am I feeling weird and uncomfortable? What is there to learn? At first I thought it might be a lesson in NOT sharing everything I’m feeling with the world. This came from thinking that now I have repercussions to face when the VSOs return. And then, without much more contemplation I realized that NO. The lesson here is about standing up for myself and truly not caring what people think - which is something I’ve struggled with my entire life.
If Dinah and John, more so Dinah, choose to take personally my ‘in the moment’ feelings about a given situation, I have no control over that. The words in my journal depict how I am feeling at that time and do not always express my general consensus about a given person or situation. This is who I am. I am an out loud processor. It’s what keeps me mentally healthy and stress free. It keeps me from hanging on to negative shit and letting it eat away at me. I cannot change who I am in this regard because I’m worried about what someone else thinks of me.
I do not apologize for anything that is written in my journal. I’m not writing a story or trying to tell some fictitious tale about my experience. It’s David, raw and exposed. I spent too many years as a child and adolescent keeping my feelings, thoughts and beliefs locked up inside me for fear of the judgment of others. THAT’S not who I am any more.

Sunday, December 7 - Thursday, December 11:

This is my last week here before heading to the Cape for vacation. Can I just say that I understand the phrase ‘chomping at the bit’ now? I am so eager to go and yet at the same time, I feel like In the past two weeks I have begun to fall in love with this place. Funny huh? I still need a break - TRUST ME! But things are finally starting to fall into place and funds are coming in and connections for funds are being made - so I no longer feel like my hands are tied.
I made a great ‘re-connection’ with my church, New Though Unity Center . The few that I am email back and forth with seem to be very eager to jump into some of my projects here. It will be awesome to have their support - emotionally and spiritually as WELL as financially.
Monday morning Eddie and I got up early and rode to Rundu with the car that needed to be repaired. I thought it worked out great to accomplish some things in town, get him a ride, as well as pick up some of my trees from the Ministry of Forestry. Well, NAMIBIA NAMIBIA, I was stuck there for the night so I crashed at Cobra’s place. Then, the car wasn’t ready until 4:30 the following day. We raced to the Ministry only to discover that people were clocking out and no one wanted to do the paperwork. THEN, some woman who I’d never came out Faustinus and said that we didn’t have the right paperwork or official stamps and couldn’t have this or that. I was furious. 4 months I’ve been working on this…I wasn’t ABOUT to leave without trees in the back of our car. I bitched and moaned and caused a rucous and rode back to Mpungu happily with 50 guava and papaya trees!
I’ve been planting a few trees each day to get them in the ground before I leave. I had my last meeting about the upcoming event and the garden with the group. We rearranged the schedule again in hopes that the garden would not die while I was gone. We also made final plans for the HIV awareness event on Saturday. I introduced a new game that got them really excited.
OH I didn’t even tell you the best news - I got a text that the money for my theater project was deposited into my account. So I am leaving a few days earlier in order to go to Windhoek and purchase the equipment. That way, it’s in the Peace Corps office and when the Rundu driver comes down for repair, he can bring it back for me. You have no idea how excited I am about getting this project going. Also, once we have rapid testing at our clinic, we will become mobile. I now just need to write a proposal for a generator so that we can go into the bush and show movies, do HIV education and HIV testing in villages 20-30k away. This next year is going to be GREAT! I have it all planned out what I am going to accomplish and the funds should be here to do everything.
Right now Sakeus and Jaffe have stopped by to watch a movie. I have my Christmas lights on, Christmas tree from Patti lit and playing holiday music. They are dancing like they were in a club. It’s cute and great and yes, I’m LOVING this.

Friday, December 12 - Saturday, December 13:

I don’t remember much about Friday, but the event on Saturday was successful and everyone had a great time. Now begins my journey south to Cape Town. On the way to the hike point I was picked up by a car going to Nkurenkuru via Zone. I took it for fear of not finding another. I have never been to Zone. It’s very green and lush there. It continues to amaze me that you can turn off of a main road, travel a couple of kilometers through nothing and then come upon a village. I am sitting under a tree while the driver visits with his family at the homestead. Isn’t it funny…? In the states we’d never pick up a hitchhiker let alone take him/her with us to our relatives’ house. Here it’s just part of life. I hope to make it to Rundu today and travel to Windhoek tomorrow. I am SO ready for this vacation!
Tonight, after it taking close to 6 hours to reach Rundu, was probably the bumpiest hike of my life. I hung out with Cedar and Kerri and went to bed early .
Sunday, December 14:
We got up early to hit the road. I went to the TRC first to make a sign and grab my tent - though I decided I didn’t really need it. I went to the hike point before them but after an hour, they arrived and I still hadn’t snagged a ride. About 30 minutes later we ALL got a ride in the back of an el camino type car. It was dreary and overcast and we thought for sure we’d get rained on. With it being so cloudy, none of us thought to put on sunscreen. Between that and how cold it was, who knew we’d arrive in Windhoek, 7 hours later - battered, sore, necks cramped and burnt to a crisp! You could cook eggs on our faces and legs. It’s really scary sometimes how intense the African sun is.
We dropped our bags at the place Kerri and Cedar were staying (where I am crashing on the floor) and I went to the PC lounge for the internet. SCORE! It was full of stuff the 26ers left behind. I now have stickers, a tape measure, bras, clothes, books, CD cases and many other things to use as prizes for our HIV awareness events. I also talked to Stephanie in the office about having ALL the clothes shipped north if no one claimed them.
I went to the store to buy stuff to make a salad for dinner and then they decided to go for pizza at the mall. I went along for the company and in taking a short cut, we found ourselves in a fair ground like area that was deserted. We ended up having to climb a barbed wire fence to get out.

Monday, December 15 - Wednesday, December 17:

The last few days have been rushing around trying to get everything for the theater project. Yesterday at 3:00 when I bought the last piece and felt like my vacation had officially started. I got all the equipment back into the storage at the PC office. I also met up with my friend Karel who used to live in Mpungu. Then last night Jehan and I went to dinner and had a blast. I’ve always really enjoyed her but this was the most 1 on 1 time we’ve had. We walked from there to the Chameleon where Claire was staying and hung out for a bit. This morning we got up early to start hiking around 8 am. After 3 hours, Carlos who is driving all the way to Cape Town, picked us up. A free ride ALL the way.
I’ve never been south of Windhoek and I can say this…I like the north MUCH better. We’ve been driving now for like 5 hours in nothing. Total desert. I mean literally nothing! Towns are spaced about 300k form one another. I feel like I am in ‘The Hills Have Eyes 3’.

Thursday, December 18:

This morning, Claire and I arrived at Long St. at 3:00 am. We had not even gotten our bags out of the car when we were offered to buy some weed. We said goodbye to Carlos - forgot my Nalgene in his car - and started looking for a hostel. Fortunately the first one we stopped at had a twin room so we took it, brushed our teeth and went right to bed.
I awoke at 7, not ever being able to sleep in and we packed, moved our things to the hostel Claire had reservations at, and went to breakfast. Croissants stuffed with scrambled eggs, portabella mushrooms, fresh basil and parmesean. After a year in the village - this was heaven. Speaking of food, I forgot to mention that the night before, Carlos stopped in Springbok and bought us dinner. He was very sweet.
After breakfast we walked around, bought some jewelry, a painting and a tapestry at the craft market, bought our South African phone cards from a Persian guy from Toronto and had another great meal for lunch. This place is amazing. So beautiful and so diverse. The only downside so far is that I am more aware -after being in the corps for a year - that all the service staff - everywhere you go - is black. Maybe it’s something I never noticed in the states, but here it’s so apparent.
Long St. is similar to gaslight Clifton in that it’s hip, laid back - you see dreads and tattoos and supermodels. Seriously, supermodels! We kept thinking we’d run into the other PCVs that are here but they continued to elude us.
I stopped by a tattoo place to schedule an appt. A year in the bush deserves a mark. When we walking around we saw a 7/11 and a McDonalds. I mean really, where are we?
I touched base with Geoffrey and made plans for taking the train in the morning to Somerset West where we will go to a sculpture exhibit and then head to the mountains for the weekend. On his suggestion, Claire and I took a taxi to the waterfront to see the sunset. We walked around all the shops - Guess, Jimmy Choo, Louis Vitton - again, where the hell are we? We decided to have dinner at a thai place and between the view of the clouds on Table mountain, the sushi appetizer, pad thai noodles, live music and people watching..I was over come with joy. I was on vacation! A real vacation. One that will rejuvenate my soul for my final year.
After Haagen Daaz for dessert - yes, Haagen Daaz! - we headed back to Long St. where we ran into Obie, Mila and Katie finishing up their dinner. We headed to Mesopotamia (a Turkish restaurant) to smoke shishah from a hookah. My first true hookah experience. It was nice with the mint tea I was drinking. Afterwards it was seriously time for bed.

Friday, December 19 - Saturday, December 20 (early):

After breakfast, Claire walked me to the train station to head to Plumstead. It was cheap and easy to navigate and I had a splendid conversation with Donald, a retired financial something or other. Once there, I met Jodi and Felix - dancer friends of Janines - and we headed to Somerset West. Geoffrey’s place is amazing. Surrounded by a wild garden - this 150 year old house is quaint and comfortable. While they were preparing lunch I went for a swim in the pool - I can’t believe I’ll be staying here for a few days.
After lunch we went to a museum in Stellenbosch to see a Rodin exhibit. Driving through these well manicured streets and gated communities filled with amazing foliage…I really began to wonder where I was. Then we’d pass a township, which is basically a location, and I’d see the shacks where people desperately try to carve out a life and I’d remember - I’m in Africa.
The exhibit was brilliant but I was overwhelmed. All this beauty. All this creativity. It made me think about all the stimulation - creative or otherwise - I’ve received in my life. Every painting, TV sow, song, amusement park, county fair, family reunion, school play, Halloween - all of those millions of things that shaped who I am today. Shaped all of us. What if all of it was gone? Taken away? Erased. Who would we be? What kind of - if any - motivation would we have to exist? To succeed? To thrive? Those in my village that I am trying to help, face exactly that. They have had so little stimulus to feed their souls that the perceived laziness and apparent alcoholism seem very minor to how I think I’d behave.
We returned to Geoffrey’s where we packed the cars and headed to the mountain. This place is spectacular. A small, one room cottage, with a loft at the base of these enormous cliffs with a view of the town down below and the ocean beyond it. Even the toilet is outside, away from the house, with no walls - overlooking the valley. What a way to take a shit. I’m telling you.
I slept so peacefully last night and this morning during breakfast, enjoyed watching a group of baboons playing on the hillside. Today we are hiking towards the cliffs and I’m gonna swim in the pool formed by the stream running alongside the cottage. This is the perfect start to my 3 weeks in South Africa.

Saturday, December 20:

I hiked and explored the stream bed with Felix and Geoffrey. I always get recharged being in nature but it was great watching them because they are SO into it. Throughout the day I had amazing conversations with Geoff about spirituality, racism, apartheid, Africans - life in general. Our views seem to be similar though I feel his may go much deeper than mine. I don’t mean that mine are superficial, just that he’s done more contemplation in his life and that part of mine is just beginning. I thought we’d make it up to the cliffs today but that will have to wait until tomorrow.

Sunday, December 21:

Today, I got up and read a bit, then after breakfast - Felix, Geoff and I headed up the mountain. I wasn’t sure how far we’d get but after an hour so found ourselves at the base of the cliffs. The view was mind boggling. Felix headed back to the cabin because he needed to get back to Cape Town early. Geoff and I continued to explore, having great conversations long the way.
We decided to head back alon the stream bed which was amazing. Scrambling down rocks, taking breaks to swim in the pools. The only thing I kept freaking out about was all the spiderwebs with the big juicy inhabitants. I had a run-in with a giant spider when I was a boy and I suppose it scarred me.
We made it back to the cabin around 2:30, rested, packed up, swam some more, then headed down the mountain. I decided to have them drop me at the Shell station cause I figured it would be easier for Piet to pick me up. I’ve decided to stay with him for a bit.
H picked me up and came to his beautiful house with lush gardens and a nice warm pool. Really. Once again, where am I? He’s Afrikaaner and yet our conversations are very different from the ones I’ve had with whites in Namibia. He’s very laid back and doesn’t appear to be racist in any way. I am just slightly concerned about his motivations for letting me stay. He’s made some innocent sexual references even though I tried to make it clear on the internet prior to my coming, that it wasn’t part of my intention in finding free places to stay.


Monday, December 22:
Did I mention how badly I am peeling? It’s been so long since I’ve not had a lengthy, daily exposure to the sun that I am shedding like an under-watered Christmas tree. And speaking of which, it’s difficult for me to fathom that it’s in a couple of days. Even though I hear the music and see the decorations, I don’t feel festive. So another holiday I miss and another next year. Damn.
Yesterday Piet dropped me off at the local mall while he had a few hours work. I sat around and people watched. I became very aware of how all the wait staff, cleaning staff, etc. was black while ALL the people perusing the mall were white or colored. There were no Black Africans - which is a strange way to say it - shopping in the mall.
Somerset West is this absolutely beautiful place of big houses and rolling lawns and lush gardens with secured, fenced in properties filled with white Africans. While the blacks life outside of town in shacks - literally, shacks made out of tin and cement. It made me wonder about the US. If I looked around there would I notice all those jobs filled by African Americans? Have I just always been oblivious to it? Or is it really a mixture of everyone and so here the difference stands out more?
It’s interesting talking to Piet about it because he’s very liberal and accepting. He told me that he felt South Africa had a ways to go but that there was a time in recent history that they whites realized their parents were wrong about apartheid and ‘woke-up’. People in American can admit slavery was wrong but have we done anything or feel responsible for doing anything about it? Piet talks a lot about how here, people actually stand up to their government. They protest. Newspapers write actual truths. The public is not duped - like we are in America, he says. He said that most people here don’t believe Americans are really ‘free’ because of the bubble we are either forced or choose to lie in. I think I agree with him. We are so controlled and anesthetized by our world. The news keeps us in constant fear of the world around us. Magazines and television tell us what to buy, what to wear, how to feel about ourselves, what medication to take if we feel ‘off’ in any way and then give us 800 channels of mindless entertainment to keep us ‘distracted’. Doesn’t it make you think about the motivation behind all of that? Who is benefiting? Drug companies, media moguls, he government. I understand message in V for Vendetta. I understand why people risk their lives to stand up to their government. What I wonder, is if there are other Americans that feel the same, why aren’t we doing something about it?
Piet then points out that we are beginning to with the recent election. He compares the similarities between the change in South Africa and what’s going on in the states. Could Obama lead to an unimaginable new era in American History? God, I hope so. So after all that depth, I walked around Cape Town, exploring shops, craft markets, the beach - I’m finding it difficult thinking about returning to my village. I’m finding myself not really thinking about my village al all. Is that bad?

Tuesday, December 23 - Wednesday, December 24:

So the other day (damn, I just realized how often I start my journal with ‘so…’), Piet had a little somethin’ somethin’ planned for the morning, so I used his scooter to return DVDs (yes, I rented DVDs) and go pick up a bag at Geoffrey’s. Then he dropped me off at the train station so I could get back to Cape Town. I got my head shaved for R15 and then met up with Joe for lunch. He introduced me to Kris - a former front girl for a punk band in England, Dylan - who has a house in Sri Lanka, and Gretchen - an American VSO. All of them working in northern Namibia near me!
We had a great lunch of jerk chicken nachos at a dive called Mojito’s and then Piet met us there. He and I had planned on going to the botanical gardens, so he invited everyone to join. The gardens are at the base of Table mountain and are truly spectacular. We spent the rest of the afternoon there and in the process, I really got to know Dylan better. Great guy! And I have a place to stay in Sri Lanka whenever I want. Piet then offered to drive us to Cape Point the next day. Piet and I returned to Somerset and went to see ‘The Women’.
The morning of Christmas eve I found myself shopping with Pete for a gift for his mum. While in the bookstore, I started crying - it came out of nowhere. Homesickness brought on by the festiveness of the season around me. We finished there then headed to pick everyone up. Again, great conversation with Piet. I have a completely different take on Afrikaaners now - at least those of South Africa.
The drive to the point (where the 2 oceans meet) was breathtaking. It included ssing the penguins at Boulder’s Point, lunch in Simon’s Town - calamari, yum - and ending with probably the most amazing scenic views I’ve ever witnessed. On the top of the mountain, by the lighthouse, seeing 2 oceans at once. How do you come down from a high like that? I am also falling in love with Gretchen and Kris - they are wonderfully spirited.
Back in CT, I checked into my hostel, met up with the rest of the 27ers to go shopping for Christmas dinner (Mexican for Christmas in South Africa…hows that???) and then to Masal Dosa for dinner. It’s a lesbian owned Indian/Persian restaurant. We had 3 courses that included a sevi pevu appetizer, dosa for an entrée and cardamom flavored ice cream with crushed cashews for dessert. Seriously, how do I return to my village after this? Seriously!!
I then met up with Joe and we walked to Da Waterkant, which is the ‘gay’ area. It was early and there wasn’t much going on, but the night slowly gained momentum. The lack of black men was sort of shocking. It was ALL whites Afrikaaners or tourists and colored guys. Colored here is used for the descendants of blacks who married the Dutch and German settlers. It’s not a derogatory word like it is in the states.
I did talk to one guy from the Congo at Bronx and then got into a very nice conversation with David, a Kenyan, at Manhattens. Yes, both named after New York, lol. I then tried to real in Joe for the walk back to the hostel. Everyone had said don’t walk around at night, but I felt completely safe. Joe and David headed in one direction and I another. There was a street vender selling falafels which looked great so it became my first Christmas present to myself - since it was 2 in the morning! It was delicious. Too tired to brush my teeth I headed to bed with my ear plugs and slept soundly.

Thursday, December 25 - Friday, December 26 (early):

Christmas day. In Africa. Quite unlike the same day in America. I have found myself missing many elements of the holidays that in the states I complained about. What I miss the most is the energy. I do feel like, for a very short period, no matter who you are or what you believe, that during Christmas there is a small window where the majority of the world is at peace. You can feel it in the air. Thought I did feel it very slightly here, it wasn’t the same. Africa is an amazing continent with so many problems and no easy answers. In talking with other volunteers from different organizations and just people from all over Africa, it’s clear there aren’t any. Most people, sitting in their homes in other parts of the world are completely clueless to what actually goes on here and what it will or would take to incite change. Black Africans want progress and many want the things we have but they cling so tightly o traditional ways and most lack any sense of ‘thinking about tomorrow’ because of the struggle to survive each day. The task of change seems impossible. But enough philosophy.
Yesterday I hung with Claire a bit in the morning, had McDonalds! For lunch then met up with the rest of Nam27 to plan dinner. At one point I took a nap and then found myself on the balcony of the hostel having a conversation with 4 guys from Sydney, Holland, Morocco and Egypt. This sort of thing never happens in Cincinnati. The Egypt guy actually lives and teaches drama in Tsumeb! I want to stay in touch with him because he could possibly do something with my OVCs.
Christmas dinner was amazing and our Mexican fiesta - which we celebrated with volunteers from Mozambique - was festive. Afterwards we were all very tired and went our separate ways. Claire, her brother, and I came up here to the balcony and hung out with Odie, Andraak, Farol and Henshrid. I found myself having to stand up for Peace Corps with Andraak. He seemed to have a negative opinion of it. I finally got tired of staring at him and went to bed.
Today I’m going to hike Table mountain with some friends when head to Somerset to crash at Piet’s again before heading to Hermanis for a shark dive - NOT me…Dylan.

Friday, December 26 - Saturday, December 27:

Friday I was going to hike the mountain with some friends but they were hungover so I decided to explore some on my own. I ended up walking 3 hours to Camps Bay and hanging at the beach for a bit before cabbing it back to Long St. I grabbed some lunch, had a chat with a rasta then met up with Kris, Gretchen and Dylan for a movie. We missed ‘Twilight’ so saw ‘Madagascar 2’ instead, then grabbed our things before Piet picked us up for Somerset. We did a braai and then crashed.
Saturday we took our time leaving and headed to Hermanis around 11. We took our time, stopping and exploring the beauty along the way. We arrived in the afternoon, checked into the hostel then grabbed dinner. There is some tension between the girls and Dylan and so I find myself being sort of a buffer. It’s fine. I enjoy all 3 of them. When we got back to the hostel we had a beer and then played some cards. We were joined in our room by an older French woman who is sort of cranky. She kept complaining about the smell - which was Dylan’s feet mind you - but I’s a hostel, not a 5 star!
We were awoken around 3 in the morning to Dylan coming in drunk. He tried to jump into his bed and brought it down on top of the French woman - funny. Today we got up early to get to the place for the diving. I was concerned about seasickness but forgot Dramamine, so it was too late. I chugged ginger beer instead. It didn’t hit me until we were out in the water - in the cage IN the water - that I would be inches from a great white shark. It wasn’t long before one arrived. HUGE! About 15 ft long. The adrenalin was amazing! It sort of attacked the corner of our cage and then swam by rightin front of us - inches from us! Dam! How do you put that into words?
Once out of the cage I saw a few more up close throughout the day. Overall - WELL worth the R795. We returned to Hermanis and have been chilling with cards and TV. And gelato! Tonight I’m going to have great seafood with the other PCVs and tomorrow it’s off to Wildernis. How do I go back to the village after this? (tends to be the theme of this holiday). Kris is playing the guitar and singing in the other room right now. It’s beautiful.

Sunday, December 28 - Monday, December 29:

Sunday evening I enjoyed dinner with the other volunteers at a nice - well, very nice - steak house (instead of seafood). I then headed to bed while they watched ‘We are Marshall’. With no time schedule in the morning, the four of us took our time packing and heading out of Hermanis to Wildernis.
The drive here was breathtaking. So green and full of hills. Every time we crested a hill you could see miles and miles of hay fields, grazing lands, ostrich and sheep farms, winelands and forests. This part of South Africa is NOT how most Americans would visualize this continent. There were plenty of moments, as we wound out way through the pine covered hills, that I felt I was in the smokey mountains of KY or parts of Virginia.
We finally arrived at Asanti, which is like a hippie Afrikaaner camp ground complete with dreaded guys smoking hash and everyone walking around barefoot. Lots of tow headed children running around between what appears to be several different mothers. It’s like I’ve entered a grunge-like Arian love commune complete with nirvana being blasted in the common room. I taught the gang spades and while we waited for veggie lasagna to be prepared in a clay oven, we drank ciders and laughed our assess off. Tomorrow we go canoeing, kloofing and abseiling.

Tuesday, December 30:

We got up this morning, had a great breakfast, Dylan headed off for a whole day’s adventure and myself and the girls played cards until it was time to go abseiling. Kris introduced us to ‘shithead’ which is not my favorite card game ever! Jannis drove us to the adventure site and we headed into the canyon. It was breathtaking. Hanging off the side of this rocky cliff, hundreds of feet above a tidal pool. Abseiling is similar to repelling. We actually scaled down the cliff wall into the water. After a few times, some of us decided to swim and get in some kloofing - which is basically cliff diving. Mine was more like cliff cannon balling but at least now I can say I’ve ‘kloofed’.
We had decided to make pizza for dinner so we met up with Dylan afterwards to hit the store. Some drama went down over money then no one wante to make pizza anymore. There has been a lot of, well drama is the best word, going on with the 3 of them since I came into the picture I think it’s understandable when different personalities spend a lot of time together - especially when you are travelling. It hasn’t affected my vacation in any way, so I’m not really concerned.
The remainder of the night we played cards in a hash smoke infested pool room where I do believe I had somewhat of a contact buzz. It’s fun being the one not doing drugs in a crow of those partaking. It’s funny.

Wednesday, December 31:

Dylan and I spent 4 hours driving back to Cape Town through some of the most beautiful countryside I’ve ever seen. We got to Piet’s early and since he had lunch plans, we went to the beach for lunch. Piet drove us into town around 3 and I began the mad search for a place to rest my head. I only had to go to 2 places before I found something. I wish I had looked further. I was in a dorm room on the first floor directly next to the bar that was setting up the loud speakers for a party. Sleep? What is sleep? Lol.
Once I checked in and showered, I met up with the rest of the 27ers to figure out dinner. After deciding on the waterfront, we headed out. I had gotten an sms from a friend about a big street party in Green Point that I was considering attending, but at R400, I changed my mind.
We put our names in at an Italian place and hung outside with bottles of champaign in bags. We’re so classy, us PCVs. I really love these guys but am so aware of age when I hang with them.
We were finally seated inside when I got an sms from Justin telling me the party was only R250. I figured it was worth that much to hangout with a beer and be a little gay. I left my friends and headed to that part of town. The whole way there I questioned what I was doing leaving friends to hang with strangers on the final new years of my 30s. I walked past the various bars, noticing the cover charges and ended up with a cider at Manhattens. It seems to be the only one where you will find black African men. I sat alone, watching the crowd, realizing I was yet again, alone and melancholy knocked on the door. I just thought about my life and where I am and so on and started smiling. A really, big, shit-eating grin! I love my life and am very happy. It became clear that the only thing really missing was someone to share it with. This of course led me to think about Mark. And this led to me wanting to kiss a cute black boy to remind me of him. It didn’t happen. I was sitting on the curb, with a beer, alone when my phone told me it was 2009. It’s okay though. It really is.
I hung out pathetically there until around 1:30 then headed back to Long St. where I met up with the others and newbies that had arrived this week. We caught up, hung out til around 3:30 then all went home. As I lay in bed trying to sleep, my body shaking from the thump of the speakers, I wished everyone I knew a Happy New Year and drifted off.

Thursday, January 1 - Friday, January 2 (6 am):

New Years day was spent chilling and meandering. I went to breakfast at Rcafe for a ricotta stuffed omelet sandwich with chives on herb bread…delicious! I then hit an internet café for a bit before meeting up with the PCVs. The remainder of the day included lunch, Extreme Home Makeover and Chinese take-away.
I am sitting here this morning not being as introspective as I would have imagined. I know 40 is a milestone but right now it just feels like any other day. Age never has been an issue for me and I certainly don’t feel like I think I should. I guess the only thing I am contemplative about is why I’m alone at 40. I don’t think I’m lonely per se but I do want to share my life with someone and I wonder why it hasn’t happened yet. Well, I know why - my insecurities, my inability to commit - but I think I mean more about that ‘connection’ to someone that comes with full acceptance. That ‘match’ that I’ve felt on different levels in the past but why hasn’t’ it ‘stuck’? Am I too controlling? Not compromising? Too caught up in my own stuff? Too picky? Too judgmental? Yes, it’s probably call those things. Actually, even as I write all this, I realize I’m not all that concerned about it afterall. I won’t be 100% ready for a relationship until I heal and love myself enough to where I don’t ‘need’ one to fill any type of void. I feel closer to that place every day.

Friday, January 2 (the big 40!):

I don’t think I could have asked fro a better birthday. I intended to start with breakfast at Lola’s but they were not open so I had some yoghurt and muesli instead. Then, Nick, Milan and I went to the Turkish baths. Between the steam, sauna, and pool, I felt my pores open, release their toxins, and walked out refreshed and almost high. Nick and I decided to hunt for massages, but after no luck, had a lunch of greasy calamari and fish. We then perused the cxraft market for a bit before I split with them to head to the waterfront with Milan and Katie. There we boarded the ferry to Robbin Island to visit the prison where Mendella was incarcerated for 18 years. I thought it would be more emotional but between the ‘speed’ of the tour and the fact that I had never read his book, it was anti -climactic. The tour itself left you no time to just wander and absorb the history.
Once back at the Cape, we headed to the sushi place to meet up with the others. I proceeded to have the most delicious, extravagant meal I’ve had since I left the states. The fish was exquisite and I didn’t even flinch when my bill came to R300.
We grabbed Haagen Daaz afterwards and then walked to Green Point. The girls had never been to a gay bar so were full of questions and comments. Milan got cruised a lot and Nick even got a phone number but the birthday boy left that evening empty handed and without even a celebratory kiss, lol. We walked back to Long St. where I headed to bed.

Saturday, January 3:

I lost my camera today. The camera itself is not all that important but it’s loss is. First, every photo I’ve taken on my Cape Town holiday is gone. Second, I now have no means to take photos at my site. I’m upset but I’m not upset. It’s a strange thing. I truly am sad for those two reasons but then not as sad as I would have expected myself to be. I’m still trying to figure this one out.
I lost the camera hiking Table mountain. It was an amazing hike and the views were spectacular. I went up with Justin and Tom, 2 white South Africans. They semed like really nice guys. But then when they were taking me back to the hostel, we got stuck in some traffic caused by a carnival that was taking place It was some type of colored celebration. As people tried to cross the streets in front of us, the racist comments and name called began. I sat in uncomfortable silence. I wanted to say something but then was reminded of something Milan had said to me a few days earlier. ‘We don’t know their personal history’. True, I don’t. It still felt weird but then it occurred to me. I’ve been stuck in downtown Cincy during the Jazz festival before and though I never yelled obscenities at people, negative thoughts did fill my head. They were as blatant as this, but they were still comments directed at a specific group of people due to my own impatience. Are we all a little racist on some level due to our upbringing and society in general? It made me think of Mark and I. When people would discover he was black, there would sometimes be comments - not negative, just acknowledgment of him being black. I used to always say that ‘I don’t see color, I just see Mark’. I read an article in a local rag where a few days ago discussing that very thing. A black person was upset when someone said that. She commented, ‘Why wouldn’t you see my color?’. We are, as Americans, sometime so sanitized to be politically correct. To not see race. But to choose not to see it means we are not acknowledging our differences and in the process, eliminating what makes each of us special. It’s as though we are trying to homogenize the entire human race into a new category - but isn’t NOT labeling and judging people for their differences the main goal? I really understand the phrase celebrate diversity now. In order to fully accept another person you have to acknowledge their uniqueness.
Even with myself, I’ve always said that I’m neither ashamed nor proud of my sexuality - it’s just a part of who I am. But…it IS a part of who I am and not wanting people to necessarily know it outright tells me I may still have some shame in it. I’ve always liked the ft hat s people can’t ‘tell’ from looking at me. I’ve even felt lucky because of it. But that’s shame and embarrassment, isn’t it? If I truly, deep down, was 100% okay with who I was, it really wouldn’t matter if they could tell or not. I love realizations like this but then sometimes, when you think you’ve worked so hard on yourself, you dig a layer deeper and find more shit. The road to fully loving oneself is very long. I just hope I have the patience for it.

Sunday, January 4 - Tuesday, January 6:

Sunday was a chilled out day. It had to be - my legs were on fire! For whatever reason I can’t remember the rest of the day. Mark has been on my brain lately. I’m not sure if I mentioned this or not but I sent him an email a few days back - spilling my heart. I basically told him that I was in love with him still and wanted to try a long distance relationship. What was I expecting his response to be? It took him a few days to get back to me and I was a little sad - though understanding - of his unwillingness. He asked me how I knew I loved him. He then created a list of his reasons why he loved me. I sat there starring at them. They were all about him actually. I wanted to write back an tell him I know I loved him cause I felt it, but I thought I’d come up with a list as well. My list was ALL about him. I found that interesting. It then made me wonder - do our lists mesh?
I’m having my doubts that they do. I fear that Mark is in his head when it comes to me. His reasons were all things he did - he respected me, he worked hard to improve our relationship, he tried to make me happy every day - none of those are really about me. These email exchanges have shed some interesting light on our relationship.
Monday I had breakfast at Rcafe then went to the movies to see ‘Australia’. I then was picked up by Lwazi, a black South African, who was letting me cras at his place. This was very educational. His father is the major of Durban and he’s met Oprah. He’s had a very different experience than most blacks here. His house (that he only uses 2 months out of the year) is spectacular. I talked his ear off about race relations, especially within the gay community. Fascinating.
I heard again from Mark with a more intimate list of reasons why he loved me. I have no doubt that he has and does. I just wonder if there’s a chance for us to start anew at some point in the future.
Today, Lwazi drove me back to the Cape, I checked into Abantu for the night, met up with Nick, Heather and Natalie and hung for the day. I went and got my nose pierced before going for my tattoo. I love my new ink though I do wish I would have gotten the ‘ohm’ symbol in red. We went to dinner at a fantastic Ethiopian restaurant then grabbed a drink at Marvel. Overall, a perfect last night in the Cape.

Wednesday, January 7:

We got up early, packed up, grabbed breakfast, hiked to the train station, missed our train, found a minibus and got dropped off along the highway to begin our journey home. We were trying for about 90 minutes with nothing. We then decided Nick and I should stay hidden and just let the girls hike. Within minutes we had our first ride going 80k out of town. On the way there I sent a thank you sms to Piet and low and behold, he was 5 minutes from us on his way to vacation.
He offered 2 of us a ride 300k and though I was set to take it, the others were nervous about hiking alone in SA. I thanked Piet and apologized and sent him on his way. Within minutes a sheep truck stopped and Heather, not liking to turn down rides if people stop, accepted a 35k ride with Nick and I IN the back WITH the sheep. He was shat on several times during that. One for the books I supposed. Our next hike took us 20 minutes to get and 30k further. I kept thinking that if this was how we were creeping back to Windhoek, it would take a week.
At the next place, we grabbed food at a petrol station, then back to the road. After a bit, 4 PCVs who had rented a car stopped by and had room for both of Nick’s marimbas. Moments after, we were picked up by 2 young Afrikaaners going all the way to Windhoek - BUT…over the course of several days. They would take us to about 200k south of Keets. Good enough.
Last night, after spending almost 2 hours getting through customs at the border, we camped along the river. I slept outside, without a tent to the sound of the nearby water. It was wonderful.

Thursday, January 8 - Friday, January 9:

We got up and packed the truck and headed out. We had planned on getting out at the petrol station and hiking from there. Jacob said he could drop us outside Keets but he was going to drive through the canyons a bit to show Carla and did we want to tag along. Sure!
The desert was amazing, hot and beautiful. AT one point we found ourselves at a lodge where we snuck in and swam for a bit. Jacob then showed us on the map where his grandfather’s game ranch was and said that we were welcome to stay the night and go to Sossusvlei the next day with them. It took me a split second to say yes while the others pondered.
We drove to the ranch which seemed to be located at the edge of the world. Once there, we jumped in a water tank/pool to cool off. The place was deserted. It was opulent - leather couches, satellite TV, beds with pillows, lol. I had been thinking on the drive out there that who in their right mind would want to live in the desert…even more isolated than I had felt in Mpungu? But that evening, with the sunset and the cool breeze - I understood what the draw was. We made sandwiches, had some wine and then I slept on the ground again. It was too nice not to.
We got up, packed and headed to Sossusvlei. On the way we stopped at a lodge for breakfast. And what did we do after breakfast you might ask? We went in a pen with 3 full grown cheetahs and petted them. OMG! When does shit like this happen? It goes down as one of the most amazing experiences of my life. They were purring so loudly, licking our hands and nibbling our fingers. Damn. (I’m sure they were thinking - tastes like chicken!), lol
We then drove to the dunes - the oldest desert on the planet to be exact. It’s called the world’s largest sandbox. Again…beautiful and amazing. We climbed one of the smaller dunes which was difficult enough. The sand was burning hot and the angle very steep. We went from there to a lodge for a drunk and though we wanted to sneak into their pool - we did not. We began our journey back towards Moltehore. The 3 of them decided, at 7 pm, to go to the petrol station and try to hike to Mariental. I had had enough for one day, so here I was, alone at the backpackers. The only guest, sitting at a table, watching the sun set, listening to my Ipod and journaling. I’m actually tearing up because I am so happy…so at peace. This ends one of the most amazing vacations I’ve ever taken. I’m ready to go home to my village and complete my final year with the Peace Corps. PC is the greatest thing I’ve ever chosen to do with my life on so many levels. I hope I can take this calmness and contentedness back to the states with me.

Saturday, January 10:

Got up early, showered, paid my bill and headed into ‘town’. As I looked around, I began to fear that my chances of getting out were going to be slim. The previous night I had had an interesting conversation with David - the French guy who owns the place - and his mother. It’s funny to me how I’ve been afraid most of my life to engage people on a daily basis. I’ve realized that when you don’t, you miss out on SO much.
Within an hour I got a lift to Mariental. I thought I was going to have to pay ut it was free. Could I really make it to and from Cape Town with NO money? Hells yeah I could! I grabbed some breakfast at Wimpy’s. My new year’s resolution to eat healthier is very difficult to keep when hitchhiking through Africa, lol. I snagged a ride to Windhoek in about 20 minutes and arrived few hours later.
I got dropped off in front of Chameleon just as Thea was walking out and though they were full, she had an extra bed and invited me to sleep in her room. We ran by the PC office, then grabbed lunch at the craft market with some other PCVs. Then it was back to Chameleon for a swim and some chillin’. Later, some of us went for pizza while others went to Joe’s beer house. Afterwards, Catherine and I came back for a movie and everyone else went to a wine bar. I was happy to be in bed before 10.

Sunday, January 11 - Tuesday, January 13:

Sunday was spent meeting up with the other PCVs at the office and waiting around for transport to Graeter’s. Once there, we swam, caught up, had dinner, and began the huge movie swap. Over the next two days we sat through many sessions that bored us and drove us a little crazy. Again, the most important thing was collecting new movies, lol. It’s been great seeing everyone and sharing our successes and non-success (I’m learning no to call them failures). I feel like I am in such a different place than I was a year ago. No anxiousness. Very little fear. I am more pumped to return to site and knock-em dead with my energy. This next year is going to ROCK!

Wednesday, January 14 - Thursday, January 15:

The last couple of days in Windhoek have been okay. I did some work for VSN, hung out with the others that have to stay behind an used the internet. I have to stay an extra week to have a crown replaced. I remember when I first arrived in Namibia that I thought I would travel to the big city more often because I would need to - emotionally, that is. But I am really ready to get back to the village. I miss it. Besides, when you are out of money and there are no good movies playing at the theater, what else can you do here? Lol

Friday, January 16:


More Windhoek today. It dawned on me that I could have hiked to Swakopmund for 5 more days of the beach before my appt. on Monday. That was really silly of me.

Saturday, January 17 -Tuesday, January 21:

So…more days in Windhoek - biding my time between the internet, TV and the mall. Sounds like I’m back in the states, eh? Had my dentist appt. and I am ready to go.
I took a ride up one of the big hills overlooking Windhoek with a friend the other night. It was quiet and the lights were beautiful. It made me miss home - my new home, Mpungu.
I’ve been seeing a lot of the inauguration stuff on TV and that’s been amazing. I hope I make it to Rundu on Tuesday in time to see his speech. I do find it interesting that so many Africans are thinking that Obama is going to come to their rescue. He has enough on his plate with our country to handle first. We need to strengthen the US before we can reach out to other nations again. This wonderful man has so much on his shoulders. He will be in my thoughts daily.
Got to the hike point early and got a ride to Otavi within 15 minutes. A sweet elderly guy. Once there, I waited about an hour for a ride to Groot - the black hole. There, I waited about 90 minutes and got a ride in a semi. They are always comfortable and reliable but take longer because they cannot go faster than 80k an hour.
I mae it to Rundu at 6:30, got a taxi to Rachel’s principals house with time to spare before the swearing in. It was nice to see it with other Americans. The only problem was that his Afrikaaner wife kept interjecting her thoughts and opinions. She and I butted heads about 9/11. She kept saying I’ve been brainwashed - I just wanted to smack her. She’s not even American, so I felt she didn’t have a right to argue, lol.
I’ve talked to Mr. Kuwema about transport but I have to stay another day in Rundu. I’ll be home by Thursday…Thank God.

Thursday, January 22 - Wednesday, January 28:

I finally arrived back at site today. I took all day to figure out transport and I wound up unloading a shit load of stuff into my flat at 8:30pm. My house was intact with a few new cobwebs here and there. I was exhausted but went and chatted with my neighbors a bit before heading to bed.
Friday was spent unpacking everything - donated stuff as well as my 10 Christmas packages! I am so blessed! I scored as well as my OVCs. I discovered that someone had cut our hose for the garden. It’s weird. They didn’t just steal the hose. They took a portion of it and now it’s not long enough to reach certain things. Sucks. My personal garden was a mess. Most everything has died and it was full of weeds. Guess my neighbor didn’t really want the R20 a week I had promised her. The big garden was in decent shape. The corn is growing well and so are the tomatoes and butternut squash. Yes, my initial reaction was…why isn’t it over flowing with bounty? Lol. But I’ve learned to appreciate the little things and make them huge!
I spent the weekend just cleaning my flat and organizing with a movie and a video game thrown in from time to time.
Monday I worked from my flat and I honestly can’t remember what I accomplished. Tuesday prepared for my OVCs. They were really excited for me to be back. I brought up the idea of breaking into 2 smaller groups - older and younger - and they jumped on it. This ultimately creates more work for me but it’s easier work. It was getting too difficult to find things to fit all the age ranges. I introduced the point system to them. It’s a way for them to earn points on behavior, grades, attendance, etc. that they can spend on school supplies and fun stuff. They LOVED the idea and LOVE seeing the chart on the wall with their names and the points they are collecting. We watched Charlotte’s Web and took it easy.
Today, I prepared for the first day of the older group. Once again my translator was very late but one of the kids took over and did it. Damien…he’s amazing! They created posters about ‘what I want my life to look like when I’m older’. They cut out pictures from magazines. It was great fun to watch them work. Many of the guys cut out pictures of hot cars and sexy white women, lol. The girls cut out pictures of nice clothes, attractive black men, pictures of families, etc. It’s funny…no matter where in the world you find yourself, those gender differences are apparent at such an early age.

Thursday, December 4, 2008

Turkey and pick-pocketing. What more can one be thankful for!

Saturday, November 1 - Sunday, November 2:
Saturday was mainly spent recuperating…and I do mean recuperating. We had pancakes, ran some errands in town and then went to the Bavaria to go swimming. Swimming. In this heat…it was fantastic. Back at Mag’s Sarah and I made burgers, we watched some SNL skits about Sarah Padin (or Palin?) and I fell asleep on the floor. I woke up long enough to transfer my body from there to Sarah’s tent outside.
Sunday, after sleeping in a bit, we all headed to the PC office and then some of us went grocery shopping while the other west Kavango-ites figured out how to get us home. Lindsey and Sarah roped us a bakki but that put us three guys in the back and I was already sunburned from the day before. So I lathered on the sunscreen and bundled up best I could so as not to have blisters by the time I arrived home. The trip was long and rough but we made it in one piece. Sarah and I spent the afternoon watching Weeds Season 4 while I waited for Efraim to pick me up for my final leg.
Around 5 he showed up and as I began carrying my crap to the car, I notice there is one of the cleaning ladies from the clinic with him. No big deal, just means I am riding in the back…no problem. Then, I notice the corpse in the back. Yes. Corpse. Dead person. Dead person wrapped in a sheet. Now…I don’t mention this to gross anyone out or because I freaked out in any way. The funny thing about this, was that it didn’t phase me at all. I mean, I just started putting my groceries in the back, in the spaces between the dead person and the sides of the truck. It didn’t even PHASE me. I was all set to climb in the back WITH the corpse and ride my hour home. It really stunned me that this was not bothering me on any level. Well, the only level it was affecting me on was I felt like I was being dis-respectful putting my feta cheese next to the foot of this dead person, lol. It ended up that I was cramming in front with the others, but…just the same…I was all set to ride in the back.

Monday, November 3 - Wednesday, November 5:
The last three days have been wonderfully busy. Monday we had our meeting and then in the afternoon, I got things ready for the next 2 days of garden training. Tuesday we had the first half of the training. I had told them that they were not getting lunch but that I would supply food for tea break. Now..if I haven’t stressed this yet…tea break tends to be a big deal in Namibia and what’s funny about it is that people who don’t even have food to eat, still take tea break.
I did not have the money or resources to make some big to do over it, so I bought bread and jam and jam and refridgerated some water. I figured sandwiches and ice cold ‘mema’ would be sufficient. Not 5 minutes after I handed out the food, one of the women complained about ‘not being satisfied’. I was SO irritated. I know I probably shouldn’t be, but it just hit me wrong. I kept my feelings to myself and apologized to her that that was all I had. Ironically, she is a member of UMYA and one of the people who complained about the food THEY had during THEIR training. I guess it’s just hard for me to understand how someone who doesn’t get to eat 3 times a day would complain about ANY food they receive. Is it just me or does that not make sense?
Tuesday afternoon I had my OVCs and we had a blast. I introduced some HIV education and they seemed to grasp it though I was worried they were a tad young. Although, Reino is 5 and when I asked about sex he knew that that’s what people did to get pregnant, lol.
Today we prepared seed beds in the garden and I was thankful it wasn’t that hot and there was a breeze. We didn’t plant as much as I thought we were going to and I am hoping that they go enough out of the training to keep going forward. I certainly don’t know anything about gardening. Tea break rolled around again and still…another issue. A lady showed up today just before we broke - she had not attended the training the day before. When I was passing out the sandwiches, she stepped up to receive one. I explained to her that she was not getting one because she has not been working in the garden today. It only made sense to me AND I was completely out of bread. She gave me the dirtiest look and walked away. One of the other ladies gave her half of hers. When we went back to plant and finish the day, she walked off. I guess she was stilled tee’d about the bread. Here’s my deal though…there tends to be an attitude in this culture of getting something for nothing. People don’t volunteer here unless they are getting paid for it. People don’t attend workshops unless they are being fed or get a t-shirt or certificate. No one - or MOST people - don’t do anything just to benefit themselves from the experience itself. So I really DIDN’T want to give this woman a sandwich just because she showed up at the time we were handing them out. That may make me a total asshole in some people’s minds but as far as the group of people I’m working with…I want them to learn responsibility. If you show up for meetings, if you help with events, if you do your share in the garden…you will be rewarded. However…you will NOT be rewarded just for being there. You must do the work. I’m sure I will hear more about this as the week progresses and have to deal with it, but I am standing my ground.

Thursday November 6 - Saturday, November 8 (around noon):
I thought I would journal early today because in the afternoon Sarah, Lindsey, Stephanie and Christine arrive for an AIDS Club event at the school so I’m sure I will busy until night. I had planned on taking it easy on Thursday but ended up filling the day with stuff that now I can’t remember. I worked in my garden a bit because the rain storm from the other night has wiped out a few of my beds. I have to admit, I should have done a more organized job in planting. I planted not marking rows or beds thinking it would just be a fun surprise to see what grows where after I forget what I put where. Lol - NOT a good idea. Big problem - you don’t know what’s a weed and what’s a vegetable. Some things are doing well - butternut squash, zucchini, peppers, but the rosemary hasn’t started at all and NONE of my tomatoes are going. I wonder if it’s because the seeds are from the states? I do have one decent tomato plant growing on my back porch that I decided to transplant in the ground because it was starting to droop. I pray it survives because it actually has small maters growing on it.
Friday I put up shelves in one of the treatment rooms to help the nurses stay more organized and then I worked in the pharmacy until lunch A guy stopped by who had been a part of a project idea earlier in the year that had fizzled out. He wondered what was going on with it. I was like…nothing. The guy that was doing it with him never got all the information back to me and then joined the military. He also wanted to talk about some problems at his school - he’s a teacher. It was nice to actually counsel someone. I spent the rest of the day cleaning and watching some Sopranos. In the evening I took my computer to Alex and Vicky’s house to watch a movie. They decided to see a scary one and it was hysterical watching ’30 Days of Night’ with them. It was more difficult to explain how there are places on the planet that experience that long of a night than it was to explain that vampires do not exist.
This morning I had breakfast, watered my garden and finished cleaning. At around 9:30, while I was playing a game on my computer, two girls showed up at my door with 2 marmosets (spelling?). There are small, monkeylike animals that live in trees. They brought them to give to me to raise as pets. I mean, come on…what am I supposed to do with these things? If they had brought me an actual monkey, I may consider keeping it, lol. But these things are so small and so fragile that there is no way.

Sunday, November 9 - Sunday, November 16:
This is the longest I’ve gone without journaling at least somewhat daily and there is no way my memory is going to allow me to relay every event of the past 7 days. Just know that it’s been an insecurity testing week, lol. Before I get to that, lets get through the usual stuff. Very few people showed up in the meeting on Monday to work in the garden and plan the next event, so we postponed the event and because the tools were locked in Fanuel’s office, we couldn’t work in the garden. My OVC group was fun and we watched a movie about the Serengeti. I released Mike and Ike back into the wild because after 5 days they still had not eaten - or had appeared not to have eaten - and it made me nervous. Because Lyambezi, Fanuel and Gideon were all gone this week there was literally nothing for me to do (one of them usually works as my translator) so I had planned on heading to Nkurenkuru on Wednesday. I woke up that day nauseous and headachy so I stayed in bed most of the day. I did get up Thursday and after waiting 3 ½ hour for a hike at the point, found myself at Sarah’s place.
The rest of the weekend was fun, partying with SnL and the rest of the west side 26ers - they leave for the states in 2 weeks. Watching them prepare to leave made me a little jealous and at the same time, I was aware of how fast my time is going here. I honestly cannot believe it’s been a year and that less than 6 months ago I was freaked out about loneliness and wanted to come home.
Now…about me being tested. As I’ve mentioned time and time again, I’m a ‘comparer’. Well, this entire past year I’ve been jealous of Sarah because she had Scot and Lindsey to hang with as she adapted to her life in Nkurenkuru. Though Christine and Alex were here, we did not and still have not developed the sort of bond where I would consider either of them friends. That has done 2 things: 1. Caused me to feel more lonely than I necessarily needed to feel and 2. Forced me to be on my own and integrate more - which, yes, is a positive. See, we have also found out that another married couple is replacing SnL so now Sarah has 2 new people to hang with - though, to her credit, she is very integrated into her community. I was told that Mpungu was getting 1 teacher to replace Alex and I got very excited. I though, hopefully, finally, I will have someone to hang out with. Play cards with at night or on the weekends. Just a familiar person to chill with. I have since found out there is not going to be a new PCV out here.
I think this entire past year I kept telling myself that at least when the new group comes along, there will be someone here. Now that’s not the case. On top of that, my only ‘real’ friend outside of Sarah, has been Jeff - who is stationed in the Caprivi. He went home this week because of medical stuff. He’s not coming back. So all of that made me realize how much I’ve relied on Sarah to ‘be there for me’ - though, yes, I have been there for myself most of the time. You still need someone, some kind of support through this experience. In watching Sarah and them interact this past weekend, I realized again how jealous I was of her friendships but then I want to this stupid place where I started doubting her liking me as a friend. I started comparing myself to Scot, to Lindsey and they fun they all seem to have together. I forget there is a 15 year age difference between myself and all of them so hanging out and drinking all the time is not enjoyable to me. Of course I’m not going to bond on the same levels and why should I expect to. But I do expect to. My insecurities make me feel like a burden to Sarah. Now…I realize that she in NO way feels that way about me and enjoys my friendship with her as much as she does with me…but that little devil pokes his head up (and has all weekend).
Yes…I just need to get over it and realize I’m a great guy and people enjoy hanging out with me and being friends with me and all that hallmark shit…but years of being friendless in school make that a difficult thing to accept.
I joined Peace Corps because I wanted to be tested and I wanted to grow. I came with these pre-conceived ideas of how exactly that would take place. I thought I would grow because I have to cook all my meals or hike to get anywhere or master another language or deal with the heat and new culture, etc. What has surfaced is that all that growth I wanted to take place IS taking place, but in ways that are much more difficult than the physical challenges I’m facing in being here.

Monday, November 17 - Thursday, November 20 (morning):
Okay, I could sit here and type and relate the past few days events but instead, I just need to bitch. I need to whine and bitch and moan and play the victim and be a little baby. I have finally had it with my pathetic fellow volunteers in Mpungu and I wish to GOD I had just been put here alone - it would have been easier.
I’ve griped about Christine and Alex before - being non-inviting and warm and not doing anything to make me feel welcome here. Well yesterday, I had to walk to the school to print something out at Dinah and Johns (who I”ll talk about in a minute). When I was headed back to my house there was a learner at the door of their house and Alex was there, so I naturally said ‘hey Alex’. Nothing. No acknowledgement. No ‘hey’ back. NOTHING. I then stepped into the inspector’s office to ask about a fax and when I came out (directly across from their front door), Christine was standing there speaking with a learner - I kept waiting for her to look up (she had to have seen me), I waved, said hello, again, NOTHING. Now granted, she was talking to someone, but hell, so fucking what! Wouldn’t a normal person at least wave back or smile or something? Well I got nothing from neither of them and that’s exactly what I’ve gotten since I arrived. Nothing. It just seems strange to me. If the situation were reversed I would have gone out of my way to make them feel welcome and comforted.
So then there’s Dinah and John. Now, I should say that John is a great guy and always has a smile on his face - so I’m speaking more about Dinah. Yesterday, when I went to make the print, I took her some sour apple Jolly Ranchers cause I knew she liked them and she was appreciative. Once again though, when we were speaking about them going to Rundu the next day, she kept saying, ‘sorry we’re full’. ‘sorry’. That’s all I’ve heard from her since I’ve met them. There have only been a few times I’ve asked for a ride and they are always ‘full’. Now…this is just me being a little baby, I know…but I guess I just hoped that after meeting and getting to know me that they would extend the same kindness to me as they have with Christine and Alex. Those 2 ALWAYS have a ride. ALWAYS. Why? Because Dinah and John offer them the ride FIRST. Then, if they aren’t going or there is room left over, they offer the space to learners. Never ONCE have they called me or mentioned ahead of time that they are going to Rundu and would I like or need a ride. Okay..once they did mention they were going to Nkurenkuru and I snagged a ride to do some grocery shopping. Is it just me or wouldn’t you just automatically offer the ride to the other volunteer - knowing they have to hike and pay so much to get to the town? Wouldn’t it just come naturally? It would to me. The whole thing just doesn’t make sense - either that, or I am just a crying baby who never gets his way. I can’t decide which is worse.
So yesterday, I asked if they could take a document that I needed faxing to Rundu with them. I had received a VAST document from PC to sign and fax back but NONE of the few faxes available in Mpungu were sending outgoing faxes. So..no biggie right? Simple. Send a fax. So Dinah says, we are leaving at nine, why don’t you meet us out by the road and hand it to us. What’s shitty about this, is that the road is a good 10 minute walk from my flat and yet it’s only a 45 second drive from the main road. In the past, I have always met them out by the road (not wanting to inconvenience them) when I have a favor for them to do. Well, in that moment, I was just pissed off. Why would make someone work that extra hard to accomplish something when everything is so hard here anyways AND it’s NOTHING for you to make it easier. I suggested that she text me when they were leaving and I would meet them in front of the clinic.
Last night, the network went down and this morning it was off as well. Now…I know I could have been pro-active and walked out to the road but I had just had it! I went about my morning routine and shortly after 9, Dinah, looking all haggard showed up at my door. I said good-morning and thanks for coming - that because of the network I was worried we would miss one another. Her only response to me was ‘then why didn’t you meet us at the road. I’ll fax this for you’. No hello. No, it’s no problem. NOTHING. I’m just so fucking tired of being treated this way by people who you would expect to be a little more on the compassionate side. So where’s the lesson for me? What am I to learn from being stuck this past year with 3 of the most miserable volunteers one could imagine? Or am I being punished for something in a former life? What the hell.
I know where Dinah is concerned that she is just British and that is the part of her that I have issues with. I realize with Alex that he is insecure and not very social inept. I know with Christine that she is also not very secure and has a lot of doubts about what she has done in the Peace Corps and what she is going to do in the future. But seriously, we all are dealing with our shit all the time but is that a reason to behave in such a manner?
I SO want to just write off Dinah and John and not really have anything to do with them unless I have to. Problem is, I sort of rely on them to print things from time to time or to laminate stuff. So what do I do? Do I limit my contact with them to strictly work related stuff when necessary? Or do I put on a fake smile, continue to have Thursday dinners with them after Christine and Alex leave? Peace Corps is hard enough - why do people have to make it that much more difficult.
On top of all of that shit, I’ve had some cranial nerve pain shooting through the left side of my head for the past 5 days and because of no network, I cannot contact the PCMO. If it continues another day or so I’m going to have to see a doctor. I’ve never felt anything like this and am sort of concerned it might be something more serious.

Thursday, November 20 - Saturday, November 22:
The rest of Thursday was uneventful and I didn’t spend any time figuring out what my 1 hour presentation on Saturday was going to be. Friday came and went with me working in the pharmacy a bit in the morning and then chillin’ the rest of the day. I kept telling myself to prepare something for the next day but everytime I sat down to do so, I felt blocked and well, fairly un-inspired. I went to bed with the belief that the HIV awareness event was going to be a failure and that I would freeze up when speaking to the men’s group. I was proven wrong on both accounts.
First - have I mentioned that the network has been out since Monday? Yep. I cannot text, call or check email - haven’t been able to for 5 days now. I’m sure that has added to the mood I’m in. At the same time, after 5 days without it…it’s not really that big a deal.
So, I woke this morning, had breakfast, watered my garden and before I knew it, Fanuel showed up to help set up. We hauled all the stuff from my place, moved a table and started hanging signs. Slowly, some others of the group showed up. Before I knew it, we had a crowd at 9 and people were amped to play the condom box game. Esther didn’t show up so I decided to run it temporarily - which turned into me running it the entire day. It was a HUGE success. The whole day went off great. I kept trying not to go to that place of ‘where is everyone that is supposed to be here’ and instead, just focused on how the day was going. We even fit in a condom demonstration and femdon demo. By noon, we had raised 185 bucks which will make our next event that much greater!
We did have one snag that I still stuck in my craw. The one nurse, of the head nurses that is, that was on staff - refused to draw blood. I was livid. I went to speak to her and sure, I could have probably handled it more democratically, but here’s the scoop. It takes SO much effort to organize these events and even MORE so to get people to willingly be HIV tested. For her to turn them away because she claimed to be ‘too busy’ or ‘tired’ sends the WRONG message to the community. The WORST message to the community. I was FURIOUS!! I told her I was going to report her to the Ministry of Health! I am going to have to have a long talk with my supervisor when he returns. I don’t care if she likes me or not after this or if any of the nurses take it personally but you CANNOT refuse to take someone’s blood when they have finally decided to get HIV tested in a country where the stigma is so big! You just can’t.
Other than that, the day was a success and everyone during lunch talked about how much fun they had. I’m really hoping they get into these events because they can run them on their own AND it does wonders in reducing stigma.
I then had about 2 hours before speaking to the church. Joanna - my OVC assistant - came by to see if I had any wrapping paper for a gift. I said I didn’t but showed her how she could make her own with some of my markers, a glue stick and a piece of old newsprint paper. So while she was doing that (I’m telling you, you are never ‘off’ as a Peace Corps volunteer), I sat down to prepare for speaking at the church. I was unusually calm about it and not worried and even as I drew a blank about what to say, I decided to just ‘wing it’.
I arrived at the church early, waited for the current speaker to finish, then took the floor. I had to do everything via a translator and I used a video on my computer about HIV. The hour FLEW by! The audience was engaged, I was NEVER fearful or nervous…it was cake! I had the men talking about things that culturally you don’t speak of in public - it was great. I walked away feeling completely confident…I then went and bought myself a Fanta, lol. It’s funny how this week has been very ‘trying’ in regards to my emotions, sensitivity, insecurity, etc. and then I’m given a gift of success to remind me why I am here. Regardless of how some days may seem to be, I’m learning to accept that there is a reason for me to be in Mpungu and there is a reason why I need to do this on my own - without other volunteers around - hell without a phone! This is hard. But…I’m growing.

Sunday, November 23 - Tuesday, November 25 (early afternoon):
Sunday came and went. I worked on my Christmas video for most of the day, took a walk and then watched a movie with Ruben and Sandra, his girlfriend. Monday, we had a our meeting and I tried to make the point about the garden not being watered as it should be. It seemed to go well but when the meeting was over and time to actually work in the garden, no one was available. I made more copies of the slideshow and then 3 boys stopped by to watch a movie. I introduced them to The Matrix - which they loved - mostly all the karate stuff.
This morning I’ve been preparing for my OVC group and getting ready to head out on Wednesday. I ran into Sandra (Ruben’s girlfriend) on my way to see Lyambezi. After he and I talked and I showed him the garden, I mentioned something about Ruben and going with him to Rundu. He then told me that Sandra was here because she tried to commit suicide last night by drinking some type of animal medication. What the F? I told him that if she needed to talk to someone, to tell her I was available. Well…her brought her over about an hour later.
She told me all about their relationship and Ruben’s infidelity (which didn’t surprise me at all given the mentality of most men in this country). I listened and offered some words of comfort and suggestions on how to move forward and she left feeling - or at least saying that she was feeling - better. This will certainly make the trip to Rundu with Ruben interesting.

Wednesday, November 26 - Sunday, November 30:

Yesterday, my OVC group was great as usual. We made piggy banks/keep sake containers out of old pill bottles I’d been saving from the pharmacy and then watched a movie about Antarctica. I could tell some of them were bored during the film, but they will remember what they saw whether they understood it at the time or not.
Wednesday morning Ruben stopped by to talk about his girlfriend, NOT knowing she had come by the day before to speak to me. I told him much of what I had said to her and that I would be happy to mediate for them if they were interested. We then decided to head to Rundu early and took off around 9. He had a lot of stops to make along the way so I reached town around 12:30.
Rach was off school so we went to lunch and mapped out the rest of the day. Over the next few days Jill, Ashley, Jessica, Thea, Griffin, Kaitlin, Juice, The Voice, Sarah and Steph made their way to Rundu for the big Thanksgiving bash scheduled for Saturday. It’s always great hanging out with the PCVs I don’t get to see that often and swapping stories. We went out on Wednesday for Rach’s b-day to the Kavango River Lodge. It has a great sunset view of the river and though it was cloudy we enjoyed the evening.
Thanksgiving day more showed up as the 26ers piled into Rundu for the last time. They all COS next week and so this is their farewell party as well as Thanksgiving celebration. Also, Joe, a PC Botswana volunteer that I had met on facebook came. It was nice to hang out with another gay PCV though I do have to say that he and I personality wise are very different. I’ve struggled with my own self-acceptance of my sexuality for years and have pretty much come to terms with it. I wish I just didn’t feel so uncomfortable around more effeminate men. I’m not sure why it bothers me so much. It didn’t help that on top of that being his ‘personality’ that he as he drank, he became kind of a snobby bitch. THAT is something I cannot stand and I found myself apologizing to my friends about having invited him.
I ran errands throughout the few week days I was here in Rundu, having meetings - discovered all my trees for my orchard project are ready - I now just have to figure out transport to the village. Maggie had brought over her projector so we watched a lot of movies, SWAPPED a lot of movies and music - typical PC gathering.
Saturday we got up early and started cooking. I was in charge of 2 pumpkin cheesecakes. I did pretty well. We made them with yogurt instead of cream cheese (cause it doesn’t exist here) and I made the crusts our of double chocolate rusks (sort of like biscotti) and that was also a success. When we all converged on the Bavaria it was amazing. SO much food and 5 generations of volunteers. OH, I forgot to mention that that newbies (5 of them) were also here from site visit. It was exactly the scenario I was in 1 year ago. It was interesting to watch their faces and see the confusion, doubt, fear, etc. - all the things I was feeling last year. It showed me how far I’d come and I was also excited for them for what lie ahead.
Last night, after dinner, around 10:30 pm, we headed to the Gazza concert. Gazza is one of the biggest Namibian artists - sort of what 50 cent or Snoop Dogg would be to us in the states. I was excited yet nervous because in crowds of drunken Namibians anything can happen. While standing in line to get in Jill was pickpocketed and lost her ticket and Chris had his phone stolen - all in a matter of 2 minutes. I had taken NOTHING with me on purpose. Once inside and in the ‘real’ crowd, I was pickpocketed 3x. All three times I felt it and reached into my pants, grabbed the persons hand and told them to F-off and keep their hands out of my pants. It was encouraging cause it showed me how much I’ve integrated, lol. If I can stand my ground like that. It’s funny how people are though cause each time I caught them, they then looked at me like ‘what are you doing? Don’t touch me!’. No ‘I’m caught’ look or ‘sorry’. They seemed pissed off at me for noticing.
It’s interesting because for PCVs the experience is very tough and hard and yet rewarding and yet there are situations where you lose faith in the very people you are here to help. The whole thing is very emotional. It’s just like when people complain about the food you provide for them when otherwise they wouldn’t be eating anything. It’s why I prefer to work with kids because they are just SO appreciative of ANYTHING you do for them.
I forgot to mention a similar situation at OK foods the day before. I had been waiting in line for chips, along with about 6 other people, and as they were coming up a man walked up behind me, complaining about things taking so long and reached over my shoulder and grabbed them out of the woman’s hands as she was handing them to me. I wasn’t about to stand for it. I grabbed his hands and in very fluent Rukwangali explained to him that I had been waiting and those belonged to me. Again, he just looked at me like ‘what are you doing?’. We exchanged words for a minute before his friend took the chips out of his hand and gave them to me and I walked away. I know there is a lot of angst towards white people in this country and I get it. I really do. I guess what I am supposed to walk away from the experience with is an understand of what most black people have gone through in history. Feeling overlooked. Feeling like a ‘thing’. There are many times where I feel just like that and have to work through those emotions on my own. I cannot imagine how one would be emotionally and psychologically if they’d experience that their entire lives. I know that’s where all the behavior stems from. It just makes our work as volunteers that much more difficult.

Monday, November 3, 2008

Time Flies when you are living in a 3rd World country...

Thursday, October 2 - Sunday, October 5:

Thursday morning I went to school to finish the HIV education at the primary school along with Gideon, my friend from the HIV+ group. It went very well and he did an amazing job. The kids really LOVED him and asked a lot of questions. I then stopped by Mr. Anton’s office to schedule the garden training for early November.
I was supposed to be going to Nkurenkuru with Lyambezi in the afternoon but when I returned to the clinic I found he had already left and forgot me. Typical. I ended up getting a ride with the ambulance and getting there in the afternoon. I made pizzas for Sarah, Scot and Lindsey and we played some spades.
Friday, Rachel, Juice and Ash showed up and we caught up and hung out. It was great to see them. Saturday we took them around Nkurenkuru and ended up visiting Selma, the friend of Sarah’s who has a monkey. I got to feed him. It’s sad that he’s kept on a chain but it was still fun. In the afternoon we all headed over to Scot and Lindsey’s for the braai. It was awesome to see so many of the other 26ers. They had slaughtered a large goat so there was plenty of it on the grill. All the locals that they had befriended since arriving. I met a couple of World Teach volunteers who are currently living in Nankudu. They are very cool and I look forward to spending more time with them.
Hanging out, dancing and socializing was great fun but I’ve realized that I’m still not very good in those type of settings. I’m much more of a 1 on 1 kind of person in a more intimate situation. When there is a lot of people, I sort of clam up and become a wall flower. It also made me realize that in our large group of volunteers, Sarah is the person I’ve bonded with the most and that I don’t feel ‘really’ close to most of the others. Sure, I consider them friends and enjoy their company. But nothing like I have in friendships back home. I wonder how much of that is me not being open and how much of it is not having a lot in common with some these guys. Do you really need to have that much in common to establish a friendship and/or bond? I sometimes think I just question things too much and don’t just go with the flow. I need to let go.
Today, Sarah and I hung out, watched movies and napped in all this heat. I made it back to site around 7, unpacked and got a phone call from my friend Doug. It was great to hear his voice and catch up. I have a busy week this week so I’m gonna call it an early night.

Monday, October 6 - Wednesday, October 8:

Monday’s meeting went well and everyone had great things to say about the event from the previous week. We brainstormed a bit about the next event and then planned for the garden training coming up in November. The rest of the day I spent organizing my desk which was a mess and then I thought Gideon was bringing Lulu over for his birthday, but the electricity went out so we cancelled.
Yesterday was my day with the young OVCs which was great. I had the create ‘All About Me’ books in which I am going to have them draw or write in every week - they then can take them home at the end of this school term. They were all very creative. We talked about why only the boys drew cars while the girls drew flowers and suns. I talked to them again about trust and the trust cycles we will be going through. There are a couple of kids that are sticking out that I am falling in love with.
Today I worked on some emails, finished organizing my desk, worked in the pharmacy a bit and now I’m getting ready for my secondary OVC group. Tomorrow I head to Rundu with a shitload of things to do, then Friday I’m off to Winhoek.

Thursday, October 9:

Today we took off early from Mpungu in order to get to Rundu and kill many birds with a single stone. Of course, we didn’t take off on time AND the driver stopped by and handled many of his errands along the way so we didn’t arrive until around noon. That sucked, because we were then all hungry and yet we had a lot to do before eating.
We did end up accomplishing a lot! We purchased all the garden equipment though it took trips to several hardware stores to do so. We also picked up the rest of the supplies for the sewing business and it was fun to see the excitement in Veronica’s eyes as she was able to pick out all the fabric she wanted. We stopped by the Ministry of Forestry to drop off the tree request, picked up my paper from the PC office, went to the bank to open an account which we weren’t able to do, have lunch and also take my friends Fanual and Veronica on their first escalator ride. It was great. They were hesitant because they had not seen anything like it. Once they ‘jumped’ on, they smiled the whole way up and back down. There were young kids playing on the escalators. It was cute because it’s probably the most fun and excitement they have ever had. I got really pissed when an Afrikaaner woman came out of her store and yelled at them. I wanted to smack her and tell her to leave them alone.
They took off in the afternoon so they could swing by Nkurenkuru and pick up the 4 bikes the groups there donated to us and I hung out with Chris and Rachel before heading to Patrick’s to sleep. I had forgotten both my phone charger AND my ear plugs and wondered how I was going to survive the next few days.

Friday, October 10 - Sunday, October 12:

I am now a firm believer in using a sign when hiking. Kami had talked about it and I had thought about it every time I hiked but this time I was prepared. I had a sign that said Peace Corps Volunteer. Chris and I waited no more than 20 minutes in Rundu to get a hike to Otjiwarongo. The hike was interesting - an Afrikaaner woman who was heading there to pick up her sister in law who was fresh out of drug rehab. Only to get a call 20k from the town to hear that she was now missing and had made the trip for nothing. Fortunately she took us the rest of the way there. We hugged her and told her it would be okay.
We grabbed some food at SuperSpar and within another 20 minutes, had our ride to Windhoek. Right to Game to say the least. We bought some things, walked to Jan Jonker to check in, took a shower, met up with some others and then headed to the mall. I had really hoped there was be a good movie playing that I could justify spending N$45 on, but there was naught. 2 young British volunteers who are friends with Katie in Aronos were also in the city and they cooked dinner for us. I can’t imagine being 18 and that far from home.
The next morning we got together to discuss who was taking over what responsibilities from the former VSN board. I was chosen (or elected myself I should say) to be in charge of PR. That means that I have to send the newbies an email in the states before they arrive, redo the current handbook and submit monthly columns to the ‘All Included’ newsletter. I can handle that. That night most of us went to Primi for Italian and I had a FROZEN MARGHERITTA!!! I haven’t had one of those since leaving the states. I also had a mojito. Damn.
There were things I needed to do that I kept missing out on because of mall hours so we decided to not start the next day until 11. I ran to the mall early and finished some errands. We then organized the training of VSN for the new group coming next month. It was fun and I actually felt like I knew what I was doing. Brooke and Katie were amazing and I’m glad they have taken the positions of trainer and coordinator. We then went to SPURS for dinner and I had a hamburger and it was GOOD!

Monday, October 13 - Wednesday, October 15:


Well, I lost faith in the sign because it was the hiking day from hell. Chris had decided to pay for a combi because he needed to get back to site. I thought, what the hell, I’ll just hike on my own. I started hiking at 6:30 in the morning. I arrived in Rundu (700k away) just past 7pm. It was ridiculously hot and tiring and I was cursing PC under my breath. Thing is, I could have paid to hike as well, but was being a cheapskate. I thought I was going to be trapped in Otavi but at the last minute managed a hike with some people heading to Zambia.
Jehan was in Rundu at Molly’s so we all caught up and watched a bit of a movie, then I crashed. Or tried to anyways, it was so hot and I was without a fan.
I had some errands to do in Rundu the next day so after accomplishing those, I went to Engen for about 45 minutes before landing a hellashis hike to Nkurenkuru. It was in the back of a truck so there was the heat and the truck was falling apart and had no suspension so combine that with all the construction on the road and I was miserable. But I managed to laugh it off. After that long ride, I decided to just crash at Sarah and come home the next day.
This morning I caught a ride with Janne, the Finnish missionary all the way to my clinic. I unpacked, tried out the new hose on my plants, moved the bikes from Fanuel’s office to my house, finished the letter to the newbies, uploaded the pics from my camera, walked to the store for milk and eggs, made lunch and then dinner and have been watching Weeds, Season 4. I’m glad to be back at site and don’t want leave it for awhile. I did find out that Sarah’s parents are coming at the end of November so if the money for my theater equipment comes in on time, I can get them to transport it back to here for me. That would be perfect. Also, I’m 8 weeks from my big vacation!! I cannot wait!

Thursday, October 16:


LONG, ass day. But the best part didn’t happen til later. On the way back from dinner at the school I was confronted with the ghosts of Christmas, lol. First, I hear and then see a very newborn baby goat with its mother near by. I take the opportunity to stop and try to pet it only to discover there is something really wrong with it and as I pick it up, I then notice the shit and blood crusting out of its ass. I now have shit and blood on my t-shirt. There’s a second where I realize this goat is going to be some wild animal’s dinner tonight and wonder whether I should put it out of its misery. I chicken out.
Halfway home I notice something scurry across the road in front of me and as I direct my headlamp I confront a rather large spider. What’s funny about this is that at dinner, Dinah was describing a large, poisonous spider that she was saw in Rundu the week before. A very aggressive, poisonous spider. This one, matched her description.
I then, get back to the clinic to hear a girl screaming and many people hanging around. Typically, the clinic is dead this time of night. Come to find out, a girl was bitten by a snake. I worry every time I am out at night walking around that I will be bitten by a snake. Also, the barber from Nkurenkuru is here with his uncle who is going to have to stay a night at the clinic. He and his friend have no place to stay so I have offered them my spare bedroom. I instantly went to this place in my head of ‘I need to lock all my closet doors’. I hate the fact that I went there, but I did. So I came home and locked the doors just in case they come over.

Friday October, 17 - Tuesday, October 21:

Friday I did the usual by working in the pharmacy until around 1 and then cleaning up the house a bit before Sarah arrived. I LOVE having company out here. She came later in the afternoon so we walked to the tuck shop for some beers, made dinner and then chilled out for the night.
Saturday, we had planned on getting up early to go for a long bike ride but it didn’t happen. She’s been having problems sleeping and being out here without a fan didn’t help. We had breakfast, played cards and watched Weeds most of the day. Once it cooled off, we went for our ride. We made it all the way to Katope (about 11k away). We thought we would be blessed with some cool drinks but their one tuck shop was out and we weren’t smart enough to take water with us. We were dying. It started to rain a bit on the way home.
We stopped by the tuck shop in Mpungu, bought some water and more beers and headed home. We taught ourselves how to play Rook - which 1. I suck at and 2. I’m still not convinced is a decent game for just two people. We then settled in for some more weeds.
Sunday we chilled most of the day while she waited her ride back to site. The rest of the day I cleaned my house and worked on my garden. I am going to plant a new bed each night this week and hopefully Sakeus will have my fence done before things start coming up and the goats eat them.
Monday I had a GREAT meeting with the group. The majority of them showed up on time and we got a lot accomplished. I feel like they are really starting to come together and we can move forward with getting things done. We talked and planned the next HIV Awareness day, discussed the theater project and finalized plans for the garden. If everything goes well, we should have the garden started the first week of November and the theater equipment should be here by the end of that month. Yippee! The rest of the day I worked on some details for the event and talked to the pastor about using the church for the garden training.
Today I meant to spend the morning preparing for my OVC stuff, but ended up getting sidetracked by other things. Most of my OVCs were early today for some reason, so I let them come in and we talked a little about math while we waited for others to arrive. MANY showed up today and I had about 25 kids in my flat. We talked about what they wanted to be when they grew up and I had them draw it in their all about me books. Most wanted to be doctors, nurses or teachers but one kid wanted to be the president of the country. I was like, GO FOR IT KIDDO! I was happy to see someone have ambition above and beyond what most people dream for.
During our class we kept getting interrupted by the local kids wanting to use my squirt guns and then one of the men from the church stopped by and said they are starting a men’s group and they want me to be a part of it. Damn! I’m VERY excited about that, but more excited that they have asked me to join. They are asking an outsider, a white person, be a part of their group. It made my day.

Wednesday, October 22 - Friday, October 24:

Wednesday I spent the morning getting ready for my OVCs in the afternoon. Gideon and Lulu stopped by so he could charge his phone and they just stayed. I kep hinting at the fact that I needed to be working but they just sat there so I felt the need to entertain Lulu.
In the afternoon, only 1 kid showed up for the OVC and neither of my assistants. It was then that I made the decision to combine the groups into the one big one on Tuesdays. He seemed to understand so I really hope he comes next week. I used the rest of the day to work on some ideas for our next HIV Awareness event. Veronica and the landlord for their sewing business stopped by so we could draw up a lease. What should have taken 30 minutes, took close to 90.
Thursday, with nothing to do really, I decided to work in the pharmacy a bit. Before I made it there though, Veronica and Berta stopped by to create the price list for their business and to discuss some problems they were having with each other. Berta’s mother wants to move to Rundu for a month or two because of problems she is having with someone in the community and she wants Berta to go with her. So of course, Veronica feels abandoned and Berta doesn’t want to NOT be a part of the business. They reason I mention all of this is that in the midst of this, while Hellini and Saki (Veronica and Fanuel’s children were playing). Hellini just stood up and started peeing on my floor. No expression of surprise or guilt on her face. Just like she was coloring - that exact same amount of enthusiasm. The others were talking and no paying attention and so I was like, ‘Hellini! Siga! Hellini!’ but she just kept on creating a big puddle on the floor and the other’s didn’t notice. Finally Veronica did notice and tried to stop her but she kept on and then started walking in it and then around my house. I was sort of shocked and frozen - not knowing exactly what to do. I didn’t really have anything I could use to clean it up except a dish towel and I didn’t want to have to clean it later. I just said I didn’t have anything and so Veronica went to the clinic to borrow a mop.
The interesting thing about all of this is that there was no apology, no embarrassment, NOTHING on the part of Veronica or Fanuel. It was like her peeing on the floor was no different than carrying sand in on her feet. At first I was very taken aback by this…I mean, their child just pissed all over my floor! And then I started thinking about it. Why SHOULD either of them be embarrassed or apologetic. They had no control over her doing that…or did they? We, as Americas, get so bent out of shape when something extreme or uncomfortable happens and the first thing we do is look for someone to blame or someone to take responsibility. Why did I think it necessary that they apologize or feel badly for what happened? How does that affect me? Is it a form of control or feeling better than someone? I mean really…if they had been all “I’m so sorry, OMG, I’m so ebararssed’. I would have immediately told them it was okay and they should laugh about it, that’s it’s no big deal. So…if I really feel that way and MOST of us feel that way in similar situations, why IS there a need for the other person to grovel and feel weird? Seriously…why?

Saturday, October 25 - Tuesday, October 28:

This morning I went for a long bike ride and then worked in my garden, preparing beds. I then decided it was time to cut my hair. Don’t ask me why. It just hit me. I haven’t cut it since I left the states but it was time. Dinah and John were going to Nkurenkuru so I decided to join them for that and also get some groceries. When I returned, the nurses went on and on about my shaved head - so I guess it was a hit. Wapa usili!!
Later that day, I went up to play cards with them. It was a lot of fun. The best part was watching Dinah get drunk off wine and how it affected her playing. Sakeus stopped by there house and he said he’d be at mine tomorrow to finish my fence.
Sunday rolled around. Sakeus showed up to finish the fence and I made him pancakes. We then talked for a bit about this and that and I went about my day. I honestly can’t remember what I did.
Monday morning we had out meeting and once again I was happy that the majority of people showed up on time. We began discussing the garden and it led to some issues - more with UMYA members than anything. UMYA is the home-based health care group I helped organize training for back in June. Unfortunately Risto, the guy in charge of UMYA hasn’t done shit since and so none of them have clients or even their kits. I unfortunately had to tell them that until they get clients, they could not be a part of the garden. They seemed to understand okay. We also talked about our next event and scheduled it for Nov. 15.
We then walked down to see the sewing business. I discovered along the way that Berta has decided to leave for a few months which leaves the business completely up to Veronica. This really sucks because I have worked so hard to get this thing going for them and now it’s at a standstill once again. I suggested to both of them that they open up the business to include a group of ladies (which honestly is what I should have done in the first place) but they weren’t interested. I don’t know how Veronica is going to manage to open this place up with 2 kids in tow. It’s no wonder most things don’t turn out here - there is always something that gets in the way.
Esther, the woman who wanted to start the kindergarten was at the meeting and I hadn’t seen her in about a month. I asked her where she was with everything and she handed me her hand-written proposal. I was happy to see that we were still moving forward with this project. I told her to come back tomorrow (cause I was wiped out) and we would type up a formal proposal together.
Today I made preparations for the afternoon OVC program while I waited for Esther to arrive. She was late, but we were able to get everything done by lunch time. The kids showed up early - as they have been - and we got started promptly at 2:30. We meditated, played the name game (more for me to learn each of their name’s than them but 2 birds with one stone), we talked about stigma and I had them draw pictures of their homesteads in their ‘All About Me’ books. They then took turns talking about them. It was sort of amusing. Many of the kids who had initially told me that their mother or father had died, talked about how they lived with their mother and father. My initial reaction - control freak reaction - was to say ‘hey, this is an OVC program ONLY!’ you need to leave. But here’s the deal…what is a ‘vulnerable’ child anyways? Just because the definition by the Ministry of Gender states it’s a child who has lost a parent…aren’t all these kids vulnerable in some way? So fuck it! I’m going to keep doing this after school program for whomever shows up. Now, if it gets to the point where I have 200 kids coming…I may have to draw the line, lol.

Wednesday, October 29 - Friday, October 31:

Wednesday was one of those ‘I have absolutely NOTHING to do days’. So that’s pretty much how it went. Thursday there wasn’t much going on mainly because I was waiting on an afternoon ride to Nkurenkuru. I cleaned my place, cancelled dinner plans with the other volunteers and basically just hung out waiting - thinking that my super was going to be back around 2 or 3 and I would ride with the car on it’s return. 8:00 pm rolls around with still no car. I finally send a text to make sure they are still coming - already getting pissed that I have missed the opportunity to go there tonight AND it would cause me to miss my free ride to Rundu Friday morning with Janne. Lyambezi calls me back to inform me that the car got into an accident and they won’t be getting here until very late. Problem was, that Sarah was not home so I was crashing with Scot and Lindsey and they go to bed early because of school. It’s just funny to me how things happen here and there is so many obstacles one has to work around in order to accomplish the simplest of tasks.
Friday I got up VERY early and walked the 1k to the hike point thinking that MAYBE I could make it in time. For about 30 minutes I just sat there, no cars at all and then as luck would have it, Selma - a friend of Sarah’s, stopped. She was on her way back to Nkurenkuru from her farm. Not only did I make it in time to catch Janne but it was free AND I saw the most beautiful sunrise of this season. It was a big lesson in not getting bent out of shape - that things always seem to work out the way they were supposed to.
Upon arrival in Rundu, I had a plethora of things to do and I set about accomplishing them before dark. I bought elbow brackets at the hardware store, went to the bank, stopped by Nawa Life and the Forestry Department, bought Tengo, had lunch, printed out many documents at the office, bought laminating sheets for birth certificates and a potato masher, lol. All in all, a very productive day.
I met up with Sarah and everyone later at the office to go buy booze for the evenings festivities. If I haven’t mentioned it yet, today marked one year ago I we left the states. One year. Damn…I realize there have been times where the days seem as though they were dragging on but I have to say that this past year has just WHIZZED by my face.
Everyone converged at Maggies, put on their Halloween costumes and began to enjoy the evening. Sarah and I went as Scot and Lindsey - our favorite Nam26er couple. Skyla was a dust bunny, Ben a wrestler, Lindsey went as Sarah Palin and Scot as Joe the Plumber, Rach was Dwight from the Office, Juice went as Maggie B, Maggie N. was a deviled egg, Christine and Alex were characters from some story I was not privy too, Cedar and Carrie went as traditional Himba women, the voice was a ninja and Lisa was a monk. I thought all the costumes were very creative given the fact that we don’t have a Capel’s or one of those temporary stores that pop up around this time. In fact, they don’t celebrate Halloween here at all. I has been quite interesting to try and explain it to Namibians. They can’t wrap their mind around the fact that children go door to door saying ‘trick or treat’ and people give them things for doing that. They all want to know WHAT ELSE the children have to work at to receive the sweets, lol. Overall, the night was fantastic, I drank too much and went to bed. A good way to put an end to my first year.