3/15 - 3/19
Today was our typical chill before travel day. The biggest thing to happen was having dinner with Matt and Katie - the guys I was originally going to couch surf with. In hindsight, I wish I would have because they didn’t live that far from where we were staying anyways.
The next morning we took the 10:30 bus to Taba - the border of Israel and Egypt. As we drove along the Red Sea the landscape mesmerized us and all the opulence of the Hilton’s and Marriot’s disturbed us, lol.
Crossing into Israel was a treat. Though the security was tight and our bags were checked thoroughly, the people were lovely. On the other side, we exchanged some Egyptian pounds into shekels and took a bus to Eilat. Eilat is like a playground for the rich - malls, Imax, pubs, haunted houses (yes, there was a haunted house). We found the cheapest place we could and grabbed some falafel on the street. After hitting a supermarket we chilled in the room. It’s very bizarre being in a 1st world country again. Buses that run on time, pedestrians having the right of way at cross walks, restaurants that sell margherittas!!! Lol It’s going to take some getting used to.
The next day we ran a bunch of errands - Eric bought a watch, we bought our tickets to Milan, Italy and our bus tickets to Jerusalem. We had been hearing a lot about rioting and stuff going on since Biden’s visit but we figured, what the hell - ADVENTURE! Most of the scenery along the way was desert until we reached the Dead Sea. Gorgeous!! We actually should have planned better and went there first but no worries.
We arrived in Jerusalem and were overwhelmed by it’s beauty and history. From the station, we took a cab to Old Jerusalem in search of a cheap hostel. Once there - amidst many (and I mean MANY!) armed guards, we walked through Damascus gate and were confronted with commercialism. It seems as though very square inch of space is occupied by shop after shop selling everything from pashminas to pomegranate juice. I just never expected it I guess. These worn down cobblestone streets where hundreds of years of footfall have echoed are not home to such extensive retain, wow.
We inquired at several places until settling on a 35 shekel a night hole in the wall. Also, it’s winder here and COLD. We had to borrow a heater the first night to sleep. Once situated in our room we went out in search of food and money. In the process ended up at the Church of the Holy Sepulcher - where Jesus is supposedly buried. It was unexpected and kind of a madhouse. We tired to wind our way back through the streets to our hostel - discovered a great little falafel place. The man informed us he’d been making them there for 53 years. Yowza! That night sleep was difficult because it was so cold and my mattress was shit.
Today, I awoke long before the boys (as usual) and after my morning rituals decided to venture out on my own. I decided to follow the stations of the cross along Via Delorosa. It was sort of amazing to be seeing these places I’ve heard so much about growing up southern Baptist and even now - through I don’t feel any strong connection to them - am still sort of awed by the energy of the place.
The stations ended at the Holy Sepulcher. I stood in line to go inside and see Jesus’ tomb. While waiting, I met a fascinating woman who was there on a pilgrimage with a group of people from Canada. We had a wonderful conversation about spirituality and religion and I met some other people from her group, including a very handsome priest. AT one point, they made the remark that I was now part of their group and he then said to call him ‘daddy’..I’ll call you daddy alright!
I then meandered through the ever winding streets until I happened upon the wailing wall and the dome of the rock…where there is supposedly a footprint of Abraham before his ascension. I sported my yamulca and walked down for a closer look. I don’t know much about Judaism, but watching and listening to the men pray was fascinating. Some outside with the shawls over their heads and their low voices while the Hassidic Jews were inside, wavering back and forth while chanting something from a book.
I walked around for a bit trying to get in to see the rock but it seemed like there were guards at every entrance checking ids and I’m certain (though I didn’t have it) that my passport would not have been sufficient.
I grabbed lunch (falafel yet again) and walked around the Armenian quarter. Somehow I found myself outside the walls so I wandered up Jericho road before realizing I was at Gethsemane. From there I saw the tomb of the virgin Mary and proceeded up the Mt. of Olives, exploring all the churches and graveyards along the way. Once on top, the views of Old Jerusalem and the encroaching city were spectacular. I then retraced my steps, found an outdoor market for some dinner and returned to the hostel. The boys are not back yet but I am sure they have equally interesting stories to tell. I did forget to mention that directly across the street from the Jaffa entrance is a newly build mall that houses everything from Tommy Hilfiger to the Gap.
3/20 - 3/29
The next day the boys wanted to do Mt. Olive and I wanted to see the room of the last supper as well as Shindler’s grave. We accomplished all that and in addition, I bought 2 new T-shirts for cheap! We had thought we’d finish in time to do Bethlehem, but that was not the case.
The following day we headed to the Dead Sea. It took some time getting there and the first bus didn’t drop us in the greatest place but 2 bus rides and 60 shekels later we were rewarded with a float in the sea and a little exfoliation mud treatment. Once again we thought we could squeeze in Bethlehem but time was not on our side. Nick and I decided to go early in the morning.
We arose around 7 to catch the bus by 8 for the 8 mile ride to the city of Jesus’ birth. Bethlehem is still in Palestinian territory so it was interesting to see all the guards with guns again. We visited the church of the Nativity which was beautiful, had some falafel and then headed back to the bus stop for the return trip. We were told we had to go through a specific checkpoint but no one seemed to know where or what it was.
We got on a bus heading back to Israel (or so we thought), the driver said that yes it was the correct bus. Once at the border, everyone got off and passports were checked. When it was discovered that we were American, we were not allowed back on the bus (it proceeded without us - even though we had already paid for the trip). We were told we had to go through the other’ checkpoint but again, no one could tell us where it was or how to get there. I mean, seriously? Is this your fuckin’ country or what?
Finally, a female soldier instructed us to stand at a place on the road and catch the next bus to the other checkpoint. Okay, so Nick, myself, and a elder Chinese gentleman (who’s English was not up to par)…waited. Upon arrival of the bus, I began to explain to the driver the situation but he stopped me with a grunt and an ‘I know, I know’ and told us to sit.
At this point, we figured he has dealt with the situation many times before and we would be taken to the other checkpoint at last. Oh us and our assumptions. This bus takes us back to where we started and then stops and says this is his final stop - where is it we want to go exactly? What? We want the other checkpoint!…but he doesn’t know where that is and can’t take us there regardless…hmmm.
We exit the bus to a line of cab drivers who all start fighting for our attention…wanting to charge an outrageous price to take us about 2k. I had already lost bus fair and wasn’t about to lose more, so we refused and began walking - with the Chinese guy following and the cabbies yelling about how far it was.
We enjoyed the walk through the city - being asked repeatedly by other taxi drivers if they could take us (the price got lower and lower but I became more and more obstinate, lol). We began to see the wall (the one separating Bethlehem from Jerusalem)…it was tall and ugly and covered in graffiti. All of which seemed to shout at the unfairness of the situation ad how everyone longed for peace. I don’t think I’ll ever understand how something that has gone on for hundreds of years had not found a resolution.
We eventually made it to the ‘300’ border and when we showed our American passports were whisked through without so much as a bag check. Now why couldn’t they have done this on at the other checkpoint? With China man in tow, we grabbed another bus and made it back to the Jaffa gate.
We met up with Eric for lunch and then I had decided to head off to Tel Aviv cause I was finished with the Old City. I was supposed to meet up with Shaya, the couch surfer by 3, but since I didn’t make it there till an hour later, I was forced to kill time walking around the ‘gay’ area (yes, I said gay area), malls and yes, a gay beach as well. Now I KNOW I’m in a 1st world country again.
When I discovered that he didn’t get off until 11, I touched base with the other guy from couch surfing (Asaf) and made plans to catch up with him for that night instead. HE ended up living very close to where I was hanging out.
Asaf is a nice guy who works for some sort of hi-tech company working on eco-friendly technology. He was very hospitable and opened his flat to me. I showered, we smoked some sheesha - called nargilla here - and then decided to go out to a gay bar - after a few glasses of wine that is, lol.
Okay, first it’s been awhile since I’ve been in the ‘gay\ scene and 2nd, Israeli men are beautiful. 3rd, I was definitely ‘fresh meat’. It made for an interesting night of head turning and I actually had it in me to approach someone for conversation and flirting. After about an hour and a half we went home and crashed.
The next day I explored some more and waited for the boys to arrive. Once there, we chilled out, then me Asaf when he came home between jobs and we coordinated with Shaya to meet him for a key and directions to his place. Shaya is an American who now lives here. He’s amazing and generous and full of information about the history of Israel, Judaism, etc.
The next day we explored Old Jaffa, enjoyed the flea markets and waterfront and made out way back towards Asaf’s to use the internet. We decided to cook dinner at his place so went shopping for supplies and told Shaya to meet us there. It was a very interesting night meeting more gay Israelis and watching their interaction along with Shaya’s commentary. I’ve gathered that though Tel Aviv is very liberal, open and gay positive (you can even marry here) that self-identity among gay men still seems to conflict with hundreds of years of culture and tradition. So most |Israeli men are comfortable having sex with other men but relationships are rare. (update: it wasn’t until we reached Italy and Eric and I were talking that he told us that a lot of the conversation that night had been negative and had been aimed at us. That they had slammed the meal we had provided and were talking about how scruffy and worn we looked. I wish Shaya had told me personally that evening cause I would not have stayed any more nights with Asaf. As generous as he appeared on the surface, I cannot stand people who are two-faced).
That evening I found myself having a wonderful conversation with a cute guy who I felt was equally flirting back with me. An hour or so into it, I told him I thought he was handsome (why wouldn’t I say that?) and it seemed as though I had dropped a bomb on the situation. Within moments he had changed his position and lost all interest in me whatsoever. Even Nick had picked up on it and wondered what the hell had happened. That sort of spoiled the rest of the night for me but to add insult to injury, I somehow had misplaced the Asaf’s 2nd set of house keys he had given me and he was forced to repel down his balcony in search of a spare set at a neighbor’s. I felt as though I was now the center of the negative conversation that ensued…going back to that old familiar territory of feeling backed into a corner and being picked on - which causes me to shut down, get angry and become overly sensitive. It’s embarrassing and it’s a process I wish I could eliminate from my reproiatoire. I went to bed that night angry with myself and a little sad.
The next day Asaf had said he was taking me rock climbing but instead, left early to take a friend out and ‘train’ him to repel - saying we would go later. Later never came and ultimately I felt like I was being punished. I got over that QUICKLY! I chilled most of the day and later when he returned, he had more friends over and we ended up meeting the boys and Shaya at |Laika, a neighbourhood bar. It was nice and low key but as the night wore on, found myself not getting to sleep until 5 am - with some help from a sexy Moroccan guy, lol.
The next morning - or later that same morning - I found myself hung over (which I hadn’t been in quite some time) and throwing up repeatedly before finally mustering the strength to walk the 2k to Shaya’s flat. That evening he took us on a tour of Old Jaffa - he knew tones about its history. It ended with tea and nargilla at a Turkish place where the guy tried to WAY overcharge us for everything. Shaya spent some time arguing in Hebrew to stop cheating us, lol. I returned to Asaf’s, thinking I was going to go right to sleep, but once again, there was a house full of people. Much flirtations and offerings of sleeping partners and all I wanted was to crash alone.
The next day, Sunday, we chilled and made plans to head to Akko, in the north, early the following day, in order to return before the country shut down for Seder. Late in the evening our plans changed when Shaya invited us to his Kibbutz in Lotan - in the south. We went to bed late and got up very early to catch the bus.
Yesterday, we enjoyed the beautiful scenery and arrived in Lotan about 11:30. A kibbutz is a commune, usually farm based and self-sufficient. I found myself really loving the concept and wondering if something like this could work in Africa. The evening ended with Seder, my first, and I was overwhelmed by the peace and wonderfulness of the strangers around me. It was beautiful and fun and warm and steeped in 1,000 years of tradition. It made me long for more structure and/or roots in my own beliefs. I want to study Buddhism more intensely when I get stateside.
3/30 - 4/1
Our second full day at the kibbutz was spent getting a tour of the entire place by Shaya. It’s a smooth operation - everything fro ecology programs to goat cheese making. Quite impressive. That evening we were invited to dine with Leah and David’s family - friend’s of Shaya’s. Once again, fantastic food, great company (Leah is a Rabbi) and we all watched the movie UP. Cute and quite funny.
The next morning we arose quite early in hopes of catching a ride to Eilat to change our bus tickets for earlier. We wanted to get back to Tel Aviv early enough to run some errands. Everything worked out and we were back by 4:30. I met up with Tom - a friend of Asaf’s and hung out before he went to work and I headed to Asaf’s to say goodbye. I spent a few hours with Asaf and then decided to head back to Tom’s to sleep. A free bed is much better than a floor ANY DAY!
This morning we got up early to get to the airport 3 hours early for check-in. It was quite thorough and exhaustive and at the same time, I was very happy for the security measures. We fly to Milan in about an hour. Another country…another continent…whew.
4/1 4/8
The flight to Milan was quick and uneventful but unfortunately it was delayed a few house so by the tie we took a bus to the city center, it was too late to buy a phone card and contact our free place to stay from couch surfing. We snagged an inexpensive hotel, grabbed some food and slept.
The next day we explored Milan, taking in Duomo, the largest gothic church in Europe and a walk along the most expensive shopping arcade - fairly boorish. We then took the train to Pordenone where Marlene was waiting to take us to her place in Aviano. This country is beautiful and as we drove through the small towns on the way, I realized this is what I always thought Europe would be.
Marly’s place is huge and we all felt like we were back in American for a bit - a fridge full of American food, meat in bulk size containers. It still seems strange though we only left Africa a short time ago. That night w chilled out, had dinner and slept. The next day we took the train to Venice. I had assumed we were going to spend a few days there, but a long afternoon and evening was sufficient. It was amazing and romantic - all the stories were true.
The following day we went to the base to do laundry and to see the base exchange (which is basically a Wal-Mart) and the commissary - which is a large grocery store that carries only American items. There is also a Taco Bell and Cinnabon there. We discovered that American military bases are ball designed to be these little bubbles of America so that soldiers and their families feel at home. I found it rather denigrating. It’s fine that my taxes go to help keep America safe but do I really need to pay for them to have Hershey’s chocolate and El Paso refried beans? Doesn’t make sense - especially seeing how in Peace Corps we are designed to adjust to our new surroundings by shopping locally - there isn’t any other option for us.
Walking around the ‘faux’ Walmart was weird and I felt strangely guilty. I wonder if that feeling will ever go away after my 2 years in Africa? We rented some movies and Leo (Marly’s Italian squeeze) got his Ps3 and games to bring back for us to play. We spent the next few days (guilt free mind you) spending hours upon end, gaming away.
Before going back to the house, we drove up and over the mountain to Piancello, a small skiing town where I had my first snowball fight in 3 years. That, and we froze our butts off. We then went to a beautiful, quaint village for some wine and cheese. Sitting there, looking out across the lake to the snow covered mountains……beautiful turquoise colored lake….damn.
After sitting down one afternoon and mapping out the final 7 weeks of our trip, we decided to do a quick 3 day trek to Switzerland - not taking into consideration how expensive it was going to be. We ended up spending more getting there and back than we did for our 2 weeks in Zanzibar, lol. BUT and it’s a big but…the train ride to and from Zurich was breathtaking. Winding in and out of the Alps, through tiny farm towns, raging water falls and rivers and snow capped mountains….STUNNING!
Zurich is an amazing city - clean, westernized, yet still retaining much of that old European charm. The hostel we had planned on staying at was full, so we found a cheap hotel and bought food at the local supermarket. The next day we explore our asses off amongst the streets, lake and river. Again, I continued to be impressed with the city. I really wanted to have a drink at a gay bar so did some research online and found a place I thought would suit me for later.
Let me also just say that the Swiss are definitely NOT prudish either. Every other corner has some type of sex shop or strip cabaret place. They seem to be like Starbucks (or Starfucks, lol) which are also everywhere! While piddling around at the hostel waiting to go out, I struck up a conversation with a woman my age, who was there alone. Turns out she’s there for the Dali Lama’s conference which would start the day we were leaving. She was fascinating and has studied all sorts of pro-active psychology and spirituality. She’s also recently discovered her own bi-sexuality, so between the discussions on Peace Corps, AID in Africa, ecology, materialism, sexuality, and spirituality - it was a brilliant evening. THIS is why I prefer staying hostels and couch surfing. Mel ended up inviting herself along to my gay bar excursion and Eric also joined in. We headed out around 11 and after walking about an hour, found the place and it was closed. Upon returning to the hostel, the gay bay close to there was just closing and we decided to head home. Along the way we found a dance club and enjoyed a drink and more great conversation.
We are now on the train heading back to Marly’s…tomorrow we are either heading to Slovenia or Croatia or Prague….hmmm…decisions…decisions…
4/9 - 4/10
We decided on Croatia and Slovenia cause they were closer and Marly didn’t feel like driving too far. We stopped first in Porec to explore and eat lunch then headed to Rijeka for the night. It’s much colder here and you could still find snow on the upper parts of the mountains. We stayed in a wonderful (probably the best we’ve come across this trip) hostel. The next day we headed to Lake Bled in Slovenia. OMG. This is definitely one of the most beautiful places on earth. It would be the perfect honeymoon place OR a wonderful place to spend Christmas. The lake is charming with an island housing a beautiful old church. A winding road leads up the largest rock face to an ancient castle. Though cold as hell, I LOVED it. The day was a bit overcast so my pictures didn’t turn out that well, but so be it. The images are forever burned in my memory. I also discovered my love for blackjack in the casino and wasted 20 Euro. We then made the 3 hour drive back to Pordenone.
Thursday, April 15, 2010
Monday, March 15, 2010
From Zanzibar to Dahab
2/3 - 2/7:
The day we left fo Zanzibar, I took my Dramanine like a good little boy - but it had little effect. Instead of enjoying the air-conditioned first class amenities, I stayed on the back, bottom and outermost part of the baot - going through the color spectrum of levels of green until we finally arrived.
Instantly we were bombarded with touts - nothing was stolen thank God. These people do NOT understand the word 'NO'! We made our way to Bandari, dropped our stuff and ventured out. Stone Town is amazing with it's winding, cobblestone streets, shops and streed food. People continued to bmbard us with offers of diving excursions and weed, lol. That night we had an 'okay' dinner but then discovered the street food festival that happens by the waterfront every night at 6. Tables piled high with grilled octopus, red snapper kababs, lobster, falafel and even freshly squeezed cane juice. We promised our sellers to indulge the next night. We ended the day with a rather expensive beer at Mercury's - named after Queen's frontman. Who knew he was born here? lol
The next day we explored, took pics, swam bought scarves and waited for 6:00. By the time it rolled around, we were a bit concered about the turnover rate of the fish on an island that has een without electricity for over 2 months. We nixed eating on the waterfront and ended up settling for chapatis filled ith chips and cabbage. Yum. That and a Sprite for 2 bucks..? can't complain.
The following morning we headed to Nungwe on the north of the island. This is my favorite place so far. Turquoise waters that beg to be snorkled and enough local culture to keep one occupied. I have never snorkled before but have definitely discovered a new passion. It's like you are flying around in a giant acquarium - I've seen the most amazing things. Nick and I also went to a local sea turtle rescue rpeserve where we petted and fed them. It was brilliant. Today we snorkled again but the waters were a bit rough and we were still pooped from yesterday. We are heading back to Stone Town tomorrow to find lodging for the music festival then off to the south eatern part of the island for a few days.
2/8 - 2/11:
We got up early, had breakfast and walked to the road - just in time to catch a daladala back to Stone Town. Once there, we had lunch and spent a few hours trying to find a place to stay from the 10th-12th. It took some time and was ridiculously hot. Around 3, we caught a ride to Jambiani, or the SHIT HOLE, as we could come to be known to us. Not really as beautiful as Nungwe and MUCH less to do. Even at high tide, you had to walk a k out in the water in order to swim.
The daladala tried in vane to overcharge us and when we informed one of the touts where it was we wanted to go, he proclaimed very boisterously that it was closed down, not working, not open. As we passed it on the way to HIS suggestion, we noticed it was fully operational. I should be used to being lied to at this point, but it still gets irritating. Have I mentioned that Zanzibar has been without elecitricity for over 2 months? Yes. The cable (donated by Norway)) from Dar (now 40 years old) corroded a few months back. Typical African solution? WAit unti someone swoops in to help. Norway, et again, is installing another cable. Africa would fall to pieces if left to its own devices.
We stayed 2 nights in Jambiani - much ado about nothing. There were puppies to play with a cute bar man to flirt with - but that's where the excitement ended. Yesterday we watied in the rain for transport, then headed back to the Stone. Halfway back, I was jolted awake by the skidding of tires. I turned in time to see a bus rear end a daladala heading the other direction. Caught between the 2 was one of the workers. He had tried to jump out of the way, but his left leg got the brunt of the blow. We stopped and a few guys jumped out and ran back to see what's up.
Next thing we knew, we are turning around and going back towards the accident. Unbeknownst to us, we were picking u the injured man to assist him to the hospital. The moans and screams from this poor guy were appropirately deafening. His lower leg had recived a compound fracture and was twisted at a grotesque angle. Many more jumped out of the combi at that point to make room. What disturbed me the most was the 'non' attention to his leg that was being paid to him upon getting him into the daladala. Shoving him in, foot of broken leg getting caught on the door and various objects - twisting the leg further in the absolute wrong direction - intensifying his agony.
Adding insult to (no pun intended) injury, a muslim woman on board went into wailing upon seeing him. His screams mounted, hers escalated - for the next 15 minutes. Somehow the piercing shrills made me focus and I supported the guy and held his hand for the ride. Once there, I assisted him into the hospital. It was all very surreal. Once back in the daladala it was business as usualy, money being passed around payment for the lurid transport we had just experienced. I shakingly walked to our dingy room and took a shot of cane rum from Eric's bag. A very eventful morning.
We then walked to the market in search of avocado and chapati and were over joyed to also discover fresh cilantro. A good, very good, lunch. We then ran errands the remainder of the day and checked out the venue for the following day. Dinner was an amazing chicken sandwichg followed by watching the mzungus (white people) on the waterfront. Oh Africa, just what do you have in store for us next?
2/12 - 2/17:
Today we ran a few errands which included getting our tickets for the Sauti de Busara. I sort of dredded spending the money but was also looking forward to it. I'mWAY over budget onthis trip and it's making me a bit nervous. We then held ourselves up in the rom until the parade - which was sort of uneventful. Some loud music and a few street performers. We followed them into the fort, found a nice spot on the grass and enjoyed an amazing night of music - it wasn't too loud or too crowded. (things I dont enjoy which proves I am getting old lol). I left before Nick and Eric and spent a restless night on the floor (it was my turn) being eaten alive by fleas.
Today, Natalie and Heather arrived! It was great to see them. Its hard to believe that with all this travelling, we are only overlapping a day with them. We showed them arund Stone Town a bit and then it was off to day 2 of the festival. I had chosed to pass because I wanted to save money and besides, I could sit on the waterfront and listen. Earlier that day I had touched base with a gay dude who lives there and was planning on having a drink with him.
While waiting, I was approached by a really cute young local. He was being exceptionally flirty. Johan then arrived and we went to Livingstone's. A nice place but all white people, lol. During our converstaion, he told me aboutthe climate of the island as far as homos go. He also mentioned that the boy who was talking to me was a prostitute, lol. So where I am finally getting my 'gay' fix and it's partly with this somewhat racist South African and earlier with someone who would have charged me for sex, lol. THEN!!! In the middle of our drink, Natalie sms's me that they have figured out a way to sneak me into the festival because there is a cute (and gay mind you) (and lonely, lol) PCV from Tanzania inside. Here I am thinking the universe is opening all the doors for me...NOT!
Once inside, I meet 3 cute guys who could all realistically be gay and I get my flirt on...to no avail. Finally it's pointed out which one IS gay and he turns out to be the one that ignored me the most, lol. I'm officially returning my 'gaydar' to Macy's - it doesnt work!
The next day we were heading off the island early so we said goodbye to the girls and headed to the dock. The ride back was very pleasant and my stomach stayed in one place. We had made a contact through the girls for a free place to stay, so we made our way ther. Jean, a US embassy worker, lives in an amazing house with AC, washer/dryer, etc. It was like being stateside..we stayed 3 days!
During those days we bought our tickets to Cairo (money), our tickets to Arusha (more money) and shipped some things back to the states (much more money!). I really am getting nervous about the budget and the more time I spend in Africa, it seems the less I'mgonna be able to do in Europe...oh well. Our last full day in Dar we were lucky enough to spend it with Ruth (who flew in from Uganda) and Danielle and Julia who were metting up with her to travel around a bit. It was great to see other pcvs and catch up.
2/18 - 2/23:
Once again, up early to catch a taxi to the bus station, this time we took a small rikshaw type thing...was quite fun. The bus was long and arduous but we were rewarded in Moshi with a spectacular view of Kilimanjaro. People say you can only see it clearly a few times a year - we were very fortunate. We tried to find the 'Golden Showers' restaurant to no avail.
The next day was overcast so we decided to take off to Arusha. Once there, Margaret (our couch surfing hostess) picked us up and took us to her house. Over the next few nights were were overwhelmed by her and Charles hospitality. We nixed going to the Serenghetti and Ngorongoro because of cost.
On our last full day we tried to attend the Rwanded genocite trials (which are still going on) but didn't have dress clothes. Ironically, we ran into Natalie and Heather yet again coming out as we were trying to enter. After a little fewllowship, we went to buy tickets for Nairobi, had some lunch, then returned to the house.
The next day, after lunch, they drove us to the bus stop and we headed for Kenya - on a fairly empty bus (which never happens). We met 2 women travelling togethewr - 1 lived a few miles from Nick on Long Island! As we got closer to Kenya, we say more and more Masaii, in full garb and as the landscape changed, I felt we were driving into 'The Lion King'.
We arrived in Nairobi, which was a bit scary cause we hadn't nailed down accomodation with our next couchsurfing host yet. Fortunately (as the universe continues to protect us) I got ahold of her minutes before she boarded transport back to her house - which is a ways out of town.
We took a taxi to the outskirts of the city and planted oursevles with Anena and friends for the next 10 days! By far, this is the coolest CS experience I've had. she is this fabulous woman who came to Nairobi a few years ago to volunteer for a few weeks and then decided to stay and find work. She is trying (on her own mind you) to work with the local prostitutes who work the truckstop near her house. Not to persuade them to stop, but to counsel, offer support and education - it's SO non-judgemental. I envy her ability to do that. All thistime in Africa and I still have my judgement about many things. She also houses other volunteers and 4 Kenya teenagers live with her and she pays for their schooling - it seems to work just fine. She also has a housekeeper (a Muslim woman) who is amazing but it was funny, we kept hugging her hello every day we saw her only to discover she is not supposed to touch other men, lol...oh cultural boundaries...pishaw!
So, the last few days we havelaught, cooked, talked about AID in Africa and evenwent to the movies. Eric and I are currently sitting on yuet another bus waiting to go to a small village and volunteer at a school. I could have easily spent the entire time in Nairobi,but this trip is about experience, so here I am - impatiently waiting to leave (we are already 2 hours late) for a 7 hour bus ride to go 200k. I will be OFFICIALLY over eastern Africa in the next few days. Egypt, here I come!
Anena's boyfriend, Austin, who lives and does volunteer work in Mathari (the 2nd largest slum in Nairobi) invited us to a soccer game that was being videotaped by 2 of Anena's other couch surfers. 2 guys from France who are filming a documentary about soccer around the world. It was an outstanding day with tons of kids vying for our attention and then a late lunch and dancing at a bar/club within the area. We were the only whites around and I never felt safer. The fellowship and fun had that night is something I'll remember forever.
2/23-2/25:
Did I say 7 hours? Try 13! Remember,we had gotten up at 5, to hike in and catch a bus that was leaving at 8:30 (supposedly). We get there, get on the bus at 7:30 to secure a seat...the bus doesn't leave until a little after 11. The road was bumpy and slow going at first but thenout of the city,we were rewarded with some of the most beautiful countryside we've seen yet.
The bus is supposed to go straight to where we are being dropped, but instead, the driver stops frequently (very frequently!) to pick up shorter term passengers to make 'extra' money. Several hours later, it began to rain and well, it rained inside the bus! Eric and i were trying our best to stay dry.
As the downpour began to let up a little, we arrived in Awendo at 6:00 pm. It's discouraging when you've travelled for 7 hours and only gone 300k! Once here, we walked around this place looking for 'west end' hardware so we could met up with the sister of the family we were staying with - during which time we are frantically smsing Mary back in Nairobi to help. Around 7:30 we had made contact and were in the front of a truck being hauled the 13k to the village. The dirt road was complete mud and the going was slow. Eventually, we got stuck (of course) and walked the remaining 4k to the house in oatmeal type mud.
Once at the house we had to ay with the grandmother before entering - it is now 10:30pm. We sit in this kerosine lamp lighted room on an uncomfortable couch whille they prepare our room. at 11 we were taken to where we were meant to sleep - a wasp, mosquite and bat infested building. We were given a bucket of warm water to bathe in.
At this point we cram down some peanut butter sandwiches - enough food to take our doxy and prepare for bed. We had only ust crawled in when they came to get us for 'dinner'. I am exhausted at this point having been up for 18 hours..but alas...we return to the house and sit and wait (nodding in and out of sleep) for food. It becamse painfully oviousl to us that the entire family had waited for our arrival to eat together - having expected us many hours earlier...FAIL!
At 1:00 am (yes!) food was presented and we ravenously inhaled it. Then, wanting to head to slumber, we were told we must have tea. I'm sitting there wondering how much longer I can hang on before bolting to my pillow. At last,we said our good nights and at 2 am, 21 hours after our journey began, sleep encompassed us.
The next morning we awoke around 8:30, washed a bit, had breafast with the family (it's now 11 am) and walked into the village to visit the primary school without really knowing what was expected of us. Upon arrival we discovered they had been waiting all morning and we were meant to actually teach class. I was amazed at how easily I stepped into that role. No fear, no plan...just started talking to the children (who's English was actually pretty good) and taught for the next 2 hours - it was amazing!
We thenbroke for lunch, went home, then around 3 headed to another school todo the same thing only here,we were bombarded with pleas for money or aid. I've lived here long enough and have come accostomed to being the 'rich' white man that I handled the situation modestly (I'm wriign this at 7:30 in the morning in Nakuru and Eric, just walked in from last night where he informs me he had a 'good' time, lol...lucky bastard). We ended the time there by privately answering some questions about HIV with 2 of the male teachers. Answering questions they have been afraid to ask..Eric and I were in the zone.
We then (thankfull) took a motorcyle back to the house because a downour ensued. We read and chilled a bit before dinner, fellowshipped with the family then got to bed around 11. The next morning we got up early,had breakfast,said goodbye to the family, got motorcycle rides back to Awendo where we grabbed a matatu to Kisii. There we got transport to Nakuru. We should be used to touts grabbing us and yelling, trying to get us to come with thembut when I am carrying all my shit with me, I just get nervous. We eventually negotiated a ride and waited for it to fill up. 5 hours later we arrived (in the rain) and stopped at Tipsy restaraunt for a greasy burger and indian food. Ironically they were playing Rick Astley - a singer we'd been mocking this entire trip.
After dinner, we walked around to find a place to sleep before settling on the Mt. Sinai Hotel. We asked for the rooftop room (as per Lonely Planet's suggestion) and were pleasantly suprised to discover that it was an actual room - ON THE ROOFTOP!. We could see the entire city around us and the mountains in thedistance...beautiful.
We then decided to venture out for a beer. We found another hotel with a bar and we watched a soccer game -that I actually found myself being interested in. Teh next room was playing music so we decided to check out the dance situation. There was no floor, buteveryone kept dancing around their own tables. Once again, noticed the homoerotic way that men danced together. 2 guys in particular were 'getting it on' and the next thing I know we were being pulled over to their table. The next hour they got progressively more drunk and the one proceeded to grope the hell out of me...on tope of that, they were soldiers (they showed us their IDs). I know the guy was not gay - but it was the most forward anyone had been with me in Africa. Quite an interesting evening. Soon after I returned to the hotel to sleep and Eric remained behind to talk to the girl they had forced on him, lol. He didn't come home last night.
2/25-2/27:
This morning we left Nakuru after breakfast and were pleasandlty suprised with how fast the trip was. Back to Nairobi in about 2 hours. I got off at Westlands Mall in order to meet Nikeos (a guy from online), for lunch. He turned out to be a great guy and we hung out a bit before he had to go back to work. He's a safari guide who was actually featured on 'Long Way Down' - the motocycle show with Ewan Mcgregor. Now I'll have to watch it!
Back at the house, we had dinner, layed cards and chilled. Yesterday most of the house went to Mathari for a soccer match and I stayed back to do laundry. Also, nikos and I were supposed to get together again. When I hadn't heart from him by 11, I showered and headed into town to sp a bit and use the internet. I then touched base with Anena and we met at the combie rink to head home. Amanda and I cooked pasta for dinner, I gave Anena an hour's massage and then it was time for bed.
12/28 - 3/2:
Our last day in Nairobi was a chilled one with most of the mornng being wasted playing cards. We then all decided to go to the movies - we all saw different things. Afterwards, hile waiting for everyone, I found myself flirting with a cute African guy. Finally, I got up the courage to go and talk to him...but alas, it was my last night and I was going to spend it with friends.
The rest of the night was glorious with lots of laughter and photos until 2 am rolled around and we took our taxi to the airport. At 5:30 our flight ook off and we slept until we landed in Cairo, 4 hours later. WHAT a city this is! It has the same chaotic, rushed feel as other places in Africa but underneath it's surface is a serenity/safety. Our first day we explored and enjoyed amazing food (and cheap!)
Our first full day we headed to the Egyptian museum to check out tut. The exhibits were amazing - to see thousands of years of history - wow. And I got a student discount with my PC ID, lol. That evening we returned to the same place for dinner. The biggest thing I have noticed here is how open and affectionate the men are...ironically in a contry where being gay is still illegal. It's quite strange and I kept getting 'cruised' which either means I am attractive or its a ploy of some kind...haven't quite figured that out.
3/3-3/4:
Today it was off to the pyramids. Oddly enough, they were located directly within the suburb of Giza. I mean, DIRECTLY in it. I guess I thought it would be a long camel rie into the desert before we crested a dune and there they are. Wrong. Also, it's so completely commercial with shop after shop selling resin replicas of the sphinx for 1 US dollar. In addition, people throw their trash everywhere - even down in open holes that lead to the tombs. Sad really. As I stand in awe of the size and age of these strauctures, I kick around pepsi bottle caps and cigarette butts. I'm sure the pharoahs never envisined this for their mighty pryamids - a bunch of foreignors with cameras and falafel.
We did do a very American thing by having pizza at Pizza Hut while gazing at the Sphyinc. We had to...had to.
Afterwards we headed to Coptic Cairo which is a collection of Christian churchs and masoleums. Quite beautiful in itself. From there, we returned to town. We ate leftover pizza then went to smoke some sheesha...well,, Nick and Eric anyways. We also ended up checkng out a movie, 'The Book of Eli' - we loved it.
Yesterday we headed to some craft markets which ended up being a bust. I got a haircut and a shave (worst experience ver!), bought our train ticktes to Alexandria (where I currently sit writing) and explored more. I met up with a guy from online while the boys used the internet. Mohamed is a gay civil engineer and he filled me in on what the gay culture was like in Egypt - which doesn't really amount to anything. On our way back through, he's going to take us to see 'Alice in Wonderland'. So far, I love Cairo. It's a fairly clean and dfeinitely a safe city. The nile is beautiful though polluted. If I had found a coucsurfing place I would stay here another week. We are on our way to Alexandria now which should be amazing in itself.
3/5-3/9:
I LOVED Alexandria! Not only was it beautiful and on the Mediteranean, but it was super cheap. Hell, our first night we spent $3.52 on our room and it had an amazing view. We spend most of the time exploring the city...the old fort where the light house used to be, the pillar of Pompey and the catacombs - beautful. We stayed 1 extra day to chill out band then headed back on Monday. We also saw the newly built library of Alexandria...outstanding!
Once back in Cairo, we hit the mall with Mohamed to see the flick...in 3D no less. We were all knd of taken back by the opulence of it all. I mean, I'd been in shoping malls around Africa but for some reason this one in particular was so over the top that it reminded me of home....US, that is. Just a strange feeling. Yesterday, though, we returned to the land of plnty to see 'Avatar' and pick up a guide book for Mediterranean Europe. The movie and company were good. Mohamed then took us to a Syrian restaurant where we enjoyed some locl fair. Tasty. tomorrow is a chill day before heading to St. Katherine's on the Sinai peninsula.
3/10-3/14:
Today, we slept in, read, played cards, watched yet another movie and then returned o our beds for the following travel day. In the morning we had breakfas, then caught a cab to the bus station. In typical Africa fashion, we arrived an hour ahead of schedule to not have ou bus leave for an hour after it was supposed to. The trip to Al-Milga was supposed to be 5-6 hours, instead it took 8 - mechanical problems and all that. Most of the scenery was desert until we hit the red sea which was beautiful. We arrived at St. Katherine's Protectorate around 8:30, made our way to the Bedoin campe, found it to be full, ha tea with the owner and slept outside by the fire. None of us slept very well between the cold and the mosquitos. They had brought us plenty of blankets, but they all smelled of camel so we chose the cold over the stink.
The next morning we shifted to a real room and then got a ride to the monastary. It was supposed to e open 9-12 bu upon arrival they told us only 11-12...it was around 9:30. St. katherin'es houses a supposed' descendant of the burning bush. Nick and I decided to attempt the climb up Mt. Sinai while we waited. Ha! What made us think we could do a 2.5 horu climb in an hour was beyond me. After many breaks, we arrived at the summit and were greeted with some of the most spectacular mountainscapes I've ever seen. Vast and beautiful. I prayed - what else do you do on Mt. Sinai - and chilled. No wonder Moses spoke to a burning bush - he was high from the climb and altitude!
We descended (much faster than ascending) and having missed the bush, started walking back to our camp. Eric arrived shortly after, having been on his own little adventure. The rest of the day we rested and made arrangements for transport to Dahab.
The next morning, the trip was short and sweet and after checking into the 'Fighting Kangaroo', e went out for lunch. This place is beautiful but very touristy. In between the thousands of dive shops are stores selling tacky refridgerator magnets and restaraunts all sporting the 'best of' on their menu. If that isn't bad enough, you cannot leaisurely stroll along the beachfront because EVERY business owner is vying for your money. I get so tired of saying 'no thank you' only to have th epeople continue to follow and coax. We finally found streed food for 3 bucks compared to the 40 we would have spent elsewhere.
Yesterday, I was up early and read to snorkel. The water was chill but amazingly clear and once underneat, we were rewarded with some of the best coral reefs, RIGHT off shore! It was breathtaking. I saw lion fish, parrot fish, sea snakes, a morray eel...phenomenal! Nick and I took a break for lunch and to buy an underwater camera bag for pics. The afternoon was equally rewarding as the morning.
After an exhausting day, I napped and we returned to the same great, cheap place for dinner as the previous night. Tomorrow is a chillaxed day in preparation for our trip to Eliat, Israel. Holy land...here I come.
The day we left fo Zanzibar, I took my Dramanine like a good little boy - but it had little effect. Instead of enjoying the air-conditioned first class amenities, I stayed on the back, bottom and outermost part of the baot - going through the color spectrum of levels of green until we finally arrived.
Instantly we were bombarded with touts - nothing was stolen thank God. These people do NOT understand the word 'NO'! We made our way to Bandari, dropped our stuff and ventured out. Stone Town is amazing with it's winding, cobblestone streets, shops and streed food. People continued to bmbard us with offers of diving excursions and weed, lol. That night we had an 'okay' dinner but then discovered the street food festival that happens by the waterfront every night at 6. Tables piled high with grilled octopus, red snapper kababs, lobster, falafel and even freshly squeezed cane juice. We promised our sellers to indulge the next night. We ended the day with a rather expensive beer at Mercury's - named after Queen's frontman. Who knew he was born here? lol
The next day we explored, took pics, swam bought scarves and waited for 6:00. By the time it rolled around, we were a bit concered about the turnover rate of the fish on an island that has een without electricity for over 2 months. We nixed eating on the waterfront and ended up settling for chapatis filled ith chips and cabbage. Yum. That and a Sprite for 2 bucks..? can't complain.
The following morning we headed to Nungwe on the north of the island. This is my favorite place so far. Turquoise waters that beg to be snorkled and enough local culture to keep one occupied. I have never snorkled before but have definitely discovered a new passion. It's like you are flying around in a giant acquarium - I've seen the most amazing things. Nick and I also went to a local sea turtle rescue rpeserve where we petted and fed them. It was brilliant. Today we snorkled again but the waters were a bit rough and we were still pooped from yesterday. We are heading back to Stone Town tomorrow to find lodging for the music festival then off to the south eatern part of the island for a few days.
2/8 - 2/11:
We got up early, had breakfast and walked to the road - just in time to catch a daladala back to Stone Town. Once there, we had lunch and spent a few hours trying to find a place to stay from the 10th-12th. It took some time and was ridiculously hot. Around 3, we caught a ride to Jambiani, or the SHIT HOLE, as we could come to be known to us. Not really as beautiful as Nungwe and MUCH less to do. Even at high tide, you had to walk a k out in the water in order to swim.
The daladala tried in vane to overcharge us and when we informed one of the touts where it was we wanted to go, he proclaimed very boisterously that it was closed down, not working, not open. As we passed it on the way to HIS suggestion, we noticed it was fully operational. I should be used to being lied to at this point, but it still gets irritating. Have I mentioned that Zanzibar has been without elecitricity for over 2 months? Yes. The cable (donated by Norway)) from Dar (now 40 years old) corroded a few months back. Typical African solution? WAit unti someone swoops in to help. Norway, et again, is installing another cable. Africa would fall to pieces if left to its own devices.
We stayed 2 nights in Jambiani - much ado about nothing. There were puppies to play with a cute bar man to flirt with - but that's where the excitement ended. Yesterday we watied in the rain for transport, then headed back to the Stone. Halfway back, I was jolted awake by the skidding of tires. I turned in time to see a bus rear end a daladala heading the other direction. Caught between the 2 was one of the workers. He had tried to jump out of the way, but his left leg got the brunt of the blow. We stopped and a few guys jumped out and ran back to see what's up.
Next thing we knew, we are turning around and going back towards the accident. Unbeknownst to us, we were picking u the injured man to assist him to the hospital. The moans and screams from this poor guy were appropirately deafening. His lower leg had recived a compound fracture and was twisted at a grotesque angle. Many more jumped out of the combi at that point to make room. What disturbed me the most was the 'non' attention to his leg that was being paid to him upon getting him into the daladala. Shoving him in, foot of broken leg getting caught on the door and various objects - twisting the leg further in the absolute wrong direction - intensifying his agony.
Adding insult to (no pun intended) injury, a muslim woman on board went into wailing upon seeing him. His screams mounted, hers escalated - for the next 15 minutes. Somehow the piercing shrills made me focus and I supported the guy and held his hand for the ride. Once there, I assisted him into the hospital. It was all very surreal. Once back in the daladala it was business as usualy, money being passed around payment for the lurid transport we had just experienced. I shakingly walked to our dingy room and took a shot of cane rum from Eric's bag. A very eventful morning.
We then walked to the market in search of avocado and chapati and were over joyed to also discover fresh cilantro. A good, very good, lunch. We then ran errands the remainder of the day and checked out the venue for the following day. Dinner was an amazing chicken sandwichg followed by watching the mzungus (white people) on the waterfront. Oh Africa, just what do you have in store for us next?
2/12 - 2/17:
Today we ran a few errands which included getting our tickets for the Sauti de Busara. I sort of dredded spending the money but was also looking forward to it. I'mWAY over budget onthis trip and it's making me a bit nervous. We then held ourselves up in the rom until the parade - which was sort of uneventful. Some loud music and a few street performers. We followed them into the fort, found a nice spot on the grass and enjoyed an amazing night of music - it wasn't too loud or too crowded. (things I dont enjoy which proves I am getting old lol). I left before Nick and Eric and spent a restless night on the floor (it was my turn) being eaten alive by fleas.
Today, Natalie and Heather arrived! It was great to see them. Its hard to believe that with all this travelling, we are only overlapping a day with them. We showed them arund Stone Town a bit and then it was off to day 2 of the festival. I had chosed to pass because I wanted to save money and besides, I could sit on the waterfront and listen. Earlier that day I had touched base with a gay dude who lives there and was planning on having a drink with him.
While waiting, I was approached by a really cute young local. He was being exceptionally flirty. Johan then arrived and we went to Livingstone's. A nice place but all white people, lol. During our converstaion, he told me aboutthe climate of the island as far as homos go. He also mentioned that the boy who was talking to me was a prostitute, lol. So where I am finally getting my 'gay' fix and it's partly with this somewhat racist South African and earlier with someone who would have charged me for sex, lol. THEN!!! In the middle of our drink, Natalie sms's me that they have figured out a way to sneak me into the festival because there is a cute (and gay mind you) (and lonely, lol) PCV from Tanzania inside. Here I am thinking the universe is opening all the doors for me...NOT!
Once inside, I meet 3 cute guys who could all realistically be gay and I get my flirt on...to no avail. Finally it's pointed out which one IS gay and he turns out to be the one that ignored me the most, lol. I'm officially returning my 'gaydar' to Macy's - it doesnt work!
The next day we were heading off the island early so we said goodbye to the girls and headed to the dock. The ride back was very pleasant and my stomach stayed in one place. We had made a contact through the girls for a free place to stay, so we made our way ther. Jean, a US embassy worker, lives in an amazing house with AC, washer/dryer, etc. It was like being stateside..we stayed 3 days!
During those days we bought our tickets to Cairo (money), our tickets to Arusha (more money) and shipped some things back to the states (much more money!). I really am getting nervous about the budget and the more time I spend in Africa, it seems the less I'mgonna be able to do in Europe...oh well. Our last full day in Dar we were lucky enough to spend it with Ruth (who flew in from Uganda) and Danielle and Julia who were metting up with her to travel around a bit. It was great to see other pcvs and catch up.
2/18 - 2/23:
Once again, up early to catch a taxi to the bus station, this time we took a small rikshaw type thing...was quite fun. The bus was long and arduous but we were rewarded in Moshi with a spectacular view of Kilimanjaro. People say you can only see it clearly a few times a year - we were very fortunate. We tried to find the 'Golden Showers' restaurant to no avail.
The next day was overcast so we decided to take off to Arusha. Once there, Margaret (our couch surfing hostess) picked us up and took us to her house. Over the next few nights were were overwhelmed by her and Charles hospitality. We nixed going to the Serenghetti and Ngorongoro because of cost.
On our last full day we tried to attend the Rwanded genocite trials (which are still going on) but didn't have dress clothes. Ironically, we ran into Natalie and Heather yet again coming out as we were trying to enter. After a little fewllowship, we went to buy tickets for Nairobi, had some lunch, then returned to the house.
The next day, after lunch, they drove us to the bus stop and we headed for Kenya - on a fairly empty bus (which never happens). We met 2 women travelling togethewr - 1 lived a few miles from Nick on Long Island! As we got closer to Kenya, we say more and more Masaii, in full garb and as the landscape changed, I felt we were driving into 'The Lion King'.
We arrived in Nairobi, which was a bit scary cause we hadn't nailed down accomodation with our next couchsurfing host yet. Fortunately (as the universe continues to protect us) I got ahold of her minutes before she boarded transport back to her house - which is a ways out of town.
We took a taxi to the outskirts of the city and planted oursevles with Anena and friends for the next 10 days! By far, this is the coolest CS experience I've had. she is this fabulous woman who came to Nairobi a few years ago to volunteer for a few weeks and then decided to stay and find work. She is trying (on her own mind you) to work with the local prostitutes who work the truckstop near her house. Not to persuade them to stop, but to counsel, offer support and education - it's SO non-judgemental. I envy her ability to do that. All thistime in Africa and I still have my judgement about many things. She also houses other volunteers and 4 Kenya teenagers live with her and she pays for their schooling - it seems to work just fine. She also has a housekeeper (a Muslim woman) who is amazing but it was funny, we kept hugging her hello every day we saw her only to discover she is not supposed to touch other men, lol...oh cultural boundaries...pishaw!
We also spent a day with Cheryl and Amanda visiting some of the local, more touristy type things. We saw baby elephants at an elephant rescure sanctuary, kissed giraffes at a giraffe rescue, then went and fed monkeys (for free) at a local park. They were crazy and climing all over us. Was a very fun day.
So, the last few days we havelaught, cooked, talked about AID in Africa and evenwent to the movies. Eric and I are currently sitting on yuet another bus waiting to go to a small village and volunteer at a school. I could have easily spent the entire time in Nairobi,but this trip is about experience, so here I am - impatiently waiting to leave (we are already 2 hours late) for a 7 hour bus ride to go 200k. I will be OFFICIALLY over eastern Africa in the next few days. Egypt, here I come!
Anena's boyfriend, Austin, who lives and does volunteer work in Mathari (the 2nd largest slum in Nairobi) invited us to a soccer game that was being videotaped by 2 of Anena's other couch surfers. 2 guys from France who are filming a documentary about soccer around the world. It was an outstanding day with tons of kids vying for our attention and then a late lunch and dancing at a bar/club within the area. We were the only whites around and I never felt safer. The fellowship and fun had that night is something I'll remember forever.
2/23-2/25:
Did I say 7 hours? Try 13! Remember,we had gotten up at 5, to hike in and catch a bus that was leaving at 8:30 (supposedly). We get there, get on the bus at 7:30 to secure a seat...the bus doesn't leave until a little after 11. The road was bumpy and slow going at first but thenout of the city,we were rewarded with some of the most beautiful countryside we've seen yet.
The bus is supposed to go straight to where we are being dropped, but instead, the driver stops frequently (very frequently!) to pick up shorter term passengers to make 'extra' money. Several hours later, it began to rain and well, it rained inside the bus! Eric and i were trying our best to stay dry.
As the downpour began to let up a little, we arrived in Awendo at 6:00 pm. It's discouraging when you've travelled for 7 hours and only gone 300k! Once here, we walked around this place looking for 'west end' hardware so we could met up with the sister of the family we were staying with - during which time we are frantically smsing Mary back in Nairobi to help. Around 7:30 we had made contact and were in the front of a truck being hauled the 13k to the village. The dirt road was complete mud and the going was slow. Eventually, we got stuck (of course) and walked the remaining 4k to the house in oatmeal type mud.
Once at the house we had to ay with the grandmother before entering - it is now 10:30pm. We sit in this kerosine lamp lighted room on an uncomfortable couch whille they prepare our room. at 11 we were taken to where we were meant to sleep - a wasp, mosquite and bat infested building. We were given a bucket of warm water to bathe in.
At this point we cram down some peanut butter sandwiches - enough food to take our doxy and prepare for bed. We had only ust crawled in when they came to get us for 'dinner'. I am exhausted at this point having been up for 18 hours..but alas...we return to the house and sit and wait (nodding in and out of sleep) for food. It becamse painfully oviousl to us that the entire family had waited for our arrival to eat together - having expected us many hours earlier...FAIL!
At 1:00 am (yes!) food was presented and we ravenously inhaled it. Then, wanting to head to slumber, we were told we must have tea. I'm sitting there wondering how much longer I can hang on before bolting to my pillow. At last,we said our good nights and at 2 am, 21 hours after our journey began, sleep encompassed us.
The next morning we awoke around 8:30, washed a bit, had breafast with the family (it's now 11 am) and walked into the village to visit the primary school without really knowing what was expected of us. Upon arrival we discovered they had been waiting all morning and we were meant to actually teach class. I was amazed at how easily I stepped into that role. No fear, no plan...just started talking to the children (who's English was actually pretty good) and taught for the next 2 hours - it was amazing!
We thenbroke for lunch, went home, then around 3 headed to another school todo the same thing only here,we were bombarded with pleas for money or aid. I've lived here long enough and have come accostomed to being the 'rich' white man that I handled the situation modestly (I'm wriign this at 7:30 in the morning in Nakuru and Eric, just walked in from last night where he informs me he had a 'good' time, lol...lucky bastard). We ended the time there by privately answering some questions about HIV with 2 of the male teachers. Answering questions they have been afraid to ask..Eric and I were in the zone.
We then (thankfull) took a motorcyle back to the house because a downour ensued. We read and chilled a bit before dinner, fellowshipped with the family then got to bed around 11. The next morning we got up early,had breakfast,said goodbye to the family, got motorcycle rides back to Awendo where we grabbed a matatu to Kisii. There we got transport to Nakuru. We should be used to touts grabbing us and yelling, trying to get us to come with thembut when I am carrying all my shit with me, I just get nervous. We eventually negotiated a ride and waited for it to fill up. 5 hours later we arrived (in the rain) and stopped at Tipsy restaraunt for a greasy burger and indian food. Ironically they were playing Rick Astley - a singer we'd been mocking this entire trip.
After dinner, we walked around to find a place to sleep before settling on the Mt. Sinai Hotel. We asked for the rooftop room (as per Lonely Planet's suggestion) and were pleasantly suprised to discover that it was an actual room - ON THE ROOFTOP!. We could see the entire city around us and the mountains in thedistance...beautiful.
We then decided to venture out for a beer. We found another hotel with a bar and we watched a soccer game -that I actually found myself being interested in. Teh next room was playing music so we decided to check out the dance situation. There was no floor, buteveryone kept dancing around their own tables. Once again, noticed the homoerotic way that men danced together. 2 guys in particular were 'getting it on' and the next thing I know we were being pulled over to their table. The next hour they got progressively more drunk and the one proceeded to grope the hell out of me...on tope of that, they were soldiers (they showed us their IDs). I know the guy was not gay - but it was the most forward anyone had been with me in Africa. Quite an interesting evening. Soon after I returned to the hotel to sleep and Eric remained behind to talk to the girl they had forced on him, lol. He didn't come home last night.
2/25-2/27:
This morning we left Nakuru after breakfast and were pleasandlty suprised with how fast the trip was. Back to Nairobi in about 2 hours. I got off at Westlands Mall in order to meet Nikeos (a guy from online), for lunch. He turned out to be a great guy and we hung out a bit before he had to go back to work. He's a safari guide who was actually featured on 'Long Way Down' - the motocycle show with Ewan Mcgregor. Now I'll have to watch it!
Back at the house, we had dinner, layed cards and chilled. Yesterday most of the house went to Mathari for a soccer match and I stayed back to do laundry. Also, nikos and I were supposed to get together again. When I hadn't heart from him by 11, I showered and headed into town to sp a bit and use the internet. I then touched base with Anena and we met at the combie rink to head home. Amanda and I cooked pasta for dinner, I gave Anena an hour's massage and then it was time for bed.
12/28 - 3/2:
Our last day in Nairobi was a chilled one with most of the mornng being wasted playing cards. We then all decided to go to the movies - we all saw different things. Afterwards, hile waiting for everyone, I found myself flirting with a cute African guy. Finally, I got up the courage to go and talk to him...but alas, it was my last night and I was going to spend it with friends.
The rest of the night was glorious with lots of laughter and photos until 2 am rolled around and we took our taxi to the airport. At 5:30 our flight ook off and we slept until we landed in Cairo, 4 hours later. WHAT a city this is! It has the same chaotic, rushed feel as other places in Africa but underneath it's surface is a serenity/safety. Our first day we explored and enjoyed amazing food (and cheap!)
Our first full day we headed to the Egyptian museum to check out tut. The exhibits were amazing - to see thousands of years of history - wow. And I got a student discount with my PC ID, lol. That evening we returned to the same place for dinner. The biggest thing I have noticed here is how open and affectionate the men are...ironically in a contry where being gay is still illegal. It's quite strange and I kept getting 'cruised' which either means I am attractive or its a ploy of some kind...haven't quite figured that out.
3/3-3/4:
Today it was off to the pyramids. Oddly enough, they were located directly within the suburb of Giza. I mean, DIRECTLY in it. I guess I thought it would be a long camel rie into the desert before we crested a dune and there they are. Wrong. Also, it's so completely commercial with shop after shop selling resin replicas of the sphinx for 1 US dollar. In addition, people throw their trash everywhere - even down in open holes that lead to the tombs. Sad really. As I stand in awe of the size and age of these strauctures, I kick around pepsi bottle caps and cigarette butts. I'm sure the pharoahs never envisined this for their mighty pryamids - a bunch of foreignors with cameras and falafel.
We did do a very American thing by having pizza at Pizza Hut while gazing at the Sphyinc. We had to...had to.
Afterwards we headed to Coptic Cairo which is a collection of Christian churchs and masoleums. Quite beautiful in itself. From there, we returned to town. We ate leftover pizza then went to smoke some sheesha...well,, Nick and Eric anyways. We also ended up checkng out a movie, 'The Book of Eli' - we loved it.
Yesterday we headed to some craft markets which ended up being a bust. I got a haircut and a shave (worst experience ver!), bought our train ticktes to Alexandria (where I currently sit writing) and explored more. I met up with a guy from online while the boys used the internet. Mohamed is a gay civil engineer and he filled me in on what the gay culture was like in Egypt - which doesn't really amount to anything. On our way back through, he's going to take us to see 'Alice in Wonderland'. So far, I love Cairo. It's a fairly clean and dfeinitely a safe city. The nile is beautiful though polluted. If I had found a coucsurfing place I would stay here another week. We are on our way to Alexandria now which should be amazing in itself.
3/5-3/9:
I LOVED Alexandria! Not only was it beautiful and on the Mediteranean, but it was super cheap. Hell, our first night we spent $3.52 on our room and it had an amazing view. We spend most of the time exploring the city...the old fort where the light house used to be, the pillar of Pompey and the catacombs - beautful. We stayed 1 extra day to chill out band then headed back on Monday. We also saw the newly built library of Alexandria...outstanding!
Once back in Cairo, we hit the mall with Mohamed to see the flick...in 3D no less. We were all knd of taken back by the opulence of it all. I mean, I'd been in shoping malls around Africa but for some reason this one in particular was so over the top that it reminded me of home....US, that is. Just a strange feeling. Yesterday, though, we returned to the land of plnty to see 'Avatar' and pick up a guide book for Mediterranean Europe. The movie and company were good. Mohamed then took us to a Syrian restaurant where we enjoyed some locl fair. Tasty. tomorrow is a chill day before heading to St. Katherine's on the Sinai peninsula.
3/10-3/14:
Today, we slept in, read, played cards, watched yet another movie and then returned o our beds for the following travel day. In the morning we had breakfas, then caught a cab to the bus station. In typical Africa fashion, we arrived an hour ahead of schedule to not have ou bus leave for an hour after it was supposed to. The trip to Al-Milga was supposed to be 5-6 hours, instead it took 8 - mechanical problems and all that. Most of the scenery was desert until we hit the red sea which was beautiful. We arrived at St. Katherine's Protectorate around 8:30, made our way to the Bedoin campe, found it to be full, ha tea with the owner and slept outside by the fire. None of us slept very well between the cold and the mosquitos. They had brought us plenty of blankets, but they all smelled of camel so we chose the cold over the stink.
The next morning we shifted to a real room and then got a ride to the monastary. It was supposed to e open 9-12 bu upon arrival they told us only 11-12...it was around 9:30. St. katherin'es houses a supposed' descendant of the burning bush. Nick and I decided to attempt the climb up Mt. Sinai while we waited. Ha! What made us think we could do a 2.5 horu climb in an hour was beyond me. After many breaks, we arrived at the summit and were greeted with some of the most spectacular mountainscapes I've ever seen. Vast and beautiful. I prayed - what else do you do on Mt. Sinai - and chilled. No wonder Moses spoke to a burning bush - he was high from the climb and altitude!
We descended (much faster than ascending) and having missed the bush, started walking back to our camp. Eric arrived shortly after, having been on his own little adventure. The rest of the day we rested and made arrangements for transport to Dahab.
The next morning, the trip was short and sweet and after checking into the 'Fighting Kangaroo', e went out for lunch. This place is beautiful but very touristy. In between the thousands of dive shops are stores selling tacky refridgerator magnets and restaraunts all sporting the 'best of' on their menu. If that isn't bad enough, you cannot leaisurely stroll along the beachfront because EVERY business owner is vying for your money. I get so tired of saying 'no thank you' only to have th epeople continue to follow and coax. We finally found streed food for 3 bucks compared to the 40 we would have spent elsewhere.
Yesterday, I was up early and read to snorkel. The water was chill but amazingly clear and once underneat, we were rewarded with some of the best coral reefs, RIGHT off shore! It was breathtaking. I saw lion fish, parrot fish, sea snakes, a morray eel...phenomenal! Nick and I took a break for lunch and to buy an underwater camera bag for pics. The afternoon was equally rewarding as the morning.
After an exhausting day, I napped and we returned to the same great, cheap place for dinner as the previous night. Tomorrow is a chillaxed day in preparation for our trip to Eliat, Israel. Holy land...here I come.
Monday, February 1, 2010
From Durban to Dar es Salaam
Yesterday we caught a taxi at 7:30 am to the bus station in hopes of taking the greyhound to St. Lucia - no such luck. We crossed the street and caught a combit to Mtubatuba, then another one there to St. Lucia. This place is a beautiful, tropical estuary. Hippos and crocs everywhere. I think we've decided to just camp here until after New Years.
Once in Manzini, we caught a 3rd ride to the Ezulwini Valley and finally arrived at the Lidwalla Lodge, 9 hours after starting. We checked in, made some dinner, and crashed. The next day we planned on walking to the 'natural hot springs' which was the main and only reason we chose to go that far INTO Swaziland. Wrong again! and a big 'fuck you' to Lonely Planet, lol. The hot springs turned out to be nothing more than hot ground water that is poured into a swimming pool. Nothing natural about that! We nixed the idea and went to the craft market and casino instead.
Ultimately he dropped us off across from the royal residence where we had our packed lunches and walked onto the palace grounds. We were stopped several times to check for cameras - we had ours but promised we wouldn't take photos of the actual ritual. We were then stopped by a beautiful young Swazi lady who spent the next 30 minutes explaining i great detail, all about the ceremony, rights of passage, etc. of the Swazi boys and today's 'fruits of the harvest' rituals. For boys to become men, the participate in a 6 day ceremony. The first day (and yes, this happens in 1 day), they walk on foot 50k to cut down trees from a sacred forest, then carry the trees on their shoulders BACK the 50k to the King's residence. There they rest. The next day, the day we were there, they have the Ncwala.
After yet another 4 hours, we switched buses in Quissico. there we saw the most beautiful sea foam green lagoon imagineable and were hitting ourselves for not staying at least one night there. Once at Inhambane, we made our way to the backpackers and explored the town. We had pizze for lunch and swam a bit. The next morning we explored some more and then caught a lift to Tofo with some Aussies.
We ran into some Moz PCVs who happened to be going snorkeling with whale sharks, so we decided to tag along. I forgot exactly how sea sick I get and didn't take my Dramamine. So basically, we spent the first hour looking for them as I got progressively more nauseous. I kept hoping I would not be the first one to hurl! A shark was eventually spotted and in the water we went. I have never snorkeled so wasn't exactly sure what I was doing. So between trying not to puke in my gear and swallow sea water, I managed to see the big fish for about 30 seconds before we were hauled back into the boat - where once again, nausea took over.
The last couple of days here have been wonderful. Time split between the beach and traipsing through town. We have decided to leave tomorrow though and try to make it to Swaziland for New Year's. It's a combination of feeling like we shouldn't stay in any one place too long and our excitement for Mozambique.
I have to admit though, as much as this trip has been amazing - and will continue to be so - I am feeling the pull for home. The Africa part of our trip is of course the most difficult, but on days where I am either stressed out from travel or bored with the same scenery, I think 'I could be home with friends and family right now'. I will probably continue to feel this way over the next 4 months.
12/31-1/4
Sitting here at Fatima's in Maputo, after a wonderful and cheap Indian meal, I realize I've neglected my updates, so here goes.
New Years Eve we hung out at BIBs in St. Lucia and then vetoed going to the big bash on the beach. We ended up watching some British Christmas special on tv, wished each other well, and crashed. The next day I went to make breakfast and found Carl - one 1/2 of a SA gay couple I had met there - passed out on the couch. I decided to play a joke on him and whipped out his penis. Not quite as humiliating as shaving someone's eyebrows, but I figured it would do the trick. It ended up that the only person to actually see him was Jerome, his partner, who, I guess, didn't find it as funny as me, lol. He started yelling at me and going off and I couldn't help but smile and laugh. He continued to rant and rave for the next few hours as we were packing to leave. As he got angrier I found it funnier...I'm sick, I guess, lol. At one point he said that Carl was so angry with me that he had started coming at me with a knife and that I needed to apologize to him. The best part of all of this gay drama was that Carl had come back from the beach earlier that morning, drunk, trying to get me to have sex with him. All this drama was stemming from his guilt and need to cover up his own actions. With an 'asshole' in a french accent, Jerome wished us well and we were off to catch a combi.
25 minutes later we arrived in Mtubatuba again where we sat in another combi for 3.5 hours before it filled and headed north. Travel days are exhausting - mainly because of the waiting around. At the next stop, there were no combis so we hiked at the side of the road until catching a lift to the Swazi border with a truck driver.
After going through immigration, we caught a ride to Manzini. But wait! After saying they were going there, they stopped at a different town and we switched to yet another car. Like I said, the travelling is exhausting!
Once in Manzini, we caught a 3rd ride to the Ezulwini Valley and finally arrived at the Lidwalla Lodge, 9 hours after starting. We checked in, made some dinner, and crashed. The next day we planned on walking to the 'natural hot springs' which was the main and only reason we chose to go that far INTO Swaziland. Wrong again! and a big 'fuck you' to Lonely Planet, lol. The hot springs turned out to be nothing more than hot ground water that is poured into a swimming pool. Nothing natural about that! We nixed the idea and went to the craft market and casino instead.While at Lidwalla, we met 2 Irish chicks who were working there - Emir and Kiara. They were fantastic and over the next few days we enjoyed getting to know them. We had planned on leaving Sunday for Moz but found out there was a huge ceremony taking place at the King's Residence just down the road. We decided to stay and walk down. On the way, we asked a cop for directions to a batik cooperative and he ended up giving us a life and telling us all about the ceremony and some local Swazi history. He was fantastic. His name was OJ - Oscar Jamabalya (or something like that).
Ultimately he dropped us off across from the royal residence where we had our packed lunches and walked onto the palace grounds. We were stopped several times to check for cameras - we had ours but promised we wouldn't take photos of the actual ritual. We were then stopped by a beautiful young Swazi lady who spent the next 30 minutes explaining i great detail, all about the ceremony, rights of passage, etc. of the Swazi boys and today's 'fruits of the harvest' rituals. For boys to become men, the participate in a 6 day ceremony. The first day (and yes, this happens in 1 day), they walk on foot 50k to cut down trees from a sacred forest, then carry the trees on their shoulders BACK the 50k to the King's residence. There they rest. The next day, the day we were there, they have the Ncwala.We purchased some traditional cloth and sticks to dress the part and then headed to the kraal to actually participate in the dance ourselves. Most of the Swazi men were wearing leaopart skin loin cloths with cow tail and chicken feather headresses. It was beautiful and amazing. The many wives of the king were dressed one way while all the princesses wore only skirts with their breasts exposed. Nick was very happy! We walked through the metal detecter (where my PA actually set it off, lol) and went inside.
In the kraal (corral), we took part in the dance. Chanting and swaing and shaking our sticks. It was such a perfect afternoon. We returned to the lodge, exhausted and hung out with the girls and some of guests. This morning, we woke early, paid our bill (with a discount complements of the Irish) and began our 8 hour day - in the pouring rain no less - to make it 265k to Maputo, the capital of Mozambique. I seriously LOVE travelling with Nick. We have found out niche and can deal with each other's mood swings, not take things personally and always end each day laughing our asses off.
1/5-1/14
Ya know, whenever I think I should get better at journaling along this trip I stop and remind myself WHY I am on it in the first place...for the EXPERIENCE!!! (not just to write about it)
We spent a day in Maputo, exploring, though we were not very impressed. The entire city seemed to be in a state of decay - the facades of anceitn buildings seeping into rot. Starving and running out of options, we had lunch at a chinese hotel - the food was good and the atmosphere entertaining. I had enough food for leftovers later.
The next day we took a taxi to the combi rink to get to XAI-XAI. This in itself wasn't too bad, tough we are frowing weary of local transportation. Along the way, we made the decision to skip XAI and head directlyfor Inhambane. Mistake #1, lol. We have GOT to make firmer plans! We made it about 6k outside of XAI where we were dropped off at the side of teh road. We tried to hike from there...to no avail. So we ended up returning to XAI. Instead of trying to make it to the picturesque beach we had heard about, we got a room at a cheap hotel - very cheap. I kept waiting for Norman Bates to knock on our door or appear in the shower. We entertained outselves by singing opera and playing cards.
The next morning we rose early for a headstart. Once on the road it became a long haul due to construction and road conditions. We had NO idea how much to pay so just gave the guy 400 mets each. He tried to charge us for our bags, but I told him NO. We drove about 2k before it pulled into a garage for repair. We sat there for an our while they worked on it. You'l think I'd be used to this sort of shit after 2 years in Nam but it's still aggravating.
After yet another 4 hours, we switched buses in Quissico. there we saw the most beautiful sea foam green lagoon imagineable and were hitting ourselves for not staying at least one night there. Once at Inhambane, we made our way to the backpackers and explored the town. We had pizze for lunch and swam a bit. The next morning we explored some more and then caught a lift to Tofo with some Aussies.They dropped us at Bamboozi lodge, we checked in and headed to the beach and town. This place is spectacular with the most beautiful azure and turquoise waters I've ever seen. We treated ourselves to lunch at Fatima's Nest, bought what would be the first of many pineapple and headed to bed - after some wine and a naked swim! The next morning we checked into Fatima's which was cheaper and closer to town - though it's reputed to be a party place, we found it rather chill with a low-key atmosphere. The next few days were spent swimming, playing cards, exploring the beach and town and trying our hands at cooking prawns - FRESH prawns. They were amazing and delicious.
We ran into some Moz PCVs who happened to be going snorkeling with whale sharks, so we decided to tag along. I forgot exactly how sea sick I get and didn't take my Dramamine. So basically, we spent the first hour looking for them as I got progressively more nauseous. I kept hoping I would not be the first one to hurl! A shark was eventually spotted and in the water we went. I have never snorkeled so wasn't exactly sure what I was doing. So between trying not to puke in my gear and swallow sea water, I managed to see the big fish for about 30 seconds before we were hauled back into the boat - where once again, nausea took over.We continued to search formore sharks on our way back to the beach. Alice, a Moz PCV, was looking rather green and finally leaned over the edge and relinquished her breakfast - I followed suit. I instantly felt better...for a few minutes anyways.
Back in Tofo, we had 'bunny chow' at a local dive and then Alicia and Matt headed back to their sites. Man I don't miss PC right now. Alice and AJ hung out for another dayand that evening we made an amazing dinner and played cards. The next day was spent relaxing from the day before. The following day I left Tofo for Vilankulu, cause I was offered a free place to stay. I will always choose free. The last few days I've been chillin on the beach, collecting sand dollars, hanging with PCVs and waiting on Nick and Eric to catch up. I am ready to move on and head farther north. Europe is calling my name but we are still about a month away.
1/15-1/20 (early)
Chilling in Vilankulu was good but I was itching to get moving. I spent time playing cards with Megan, doing yoga - I even got to go to a class - and swimming. Eric and Nick arrived on Saturday. Sunday, I showed them around and we went swimming. We all got a bit dehydrated so didn't feel well the rest of the day. We went to buy tickets for the early bus the next day only to discover it was already booked. That meant another day here. God, I just wanna go!!!!
The next morning we awoke to discover that one of Megan's dogs had torn up Eric's backpack. We mended it as best we could (it's now called Frankenbag). We got up at 3am the following morning to catch the bus. It was the usual chaos. 9 hours later we arrived in Inchope, immediately caught a lift to Chimoio, bought food at Shoprite and caught a free ride to the Pink Papaya. I went right to sleep while the guys went to buy bus tickets for the following day and get Nick a new camera. His died a few days earlier and I fear mine is on a similar path.
I awoke around 5:30 and groggily went for a walk to town. The market was a scary, dark place where various things were sold in the dim light of wooden stalls with corrogated metal roofs. Back at the Papaya, I cooked dinner and we had wine while we talked about the next few days of our trip.
Once again, 3 am, we awoke and trekked to the chapa rink with our stuff. This was even more chaotic than the day before but I had promised myself to relax and not complain. I had found myself doing it way too much and I didn't want this whole 5 months to turn into me griping about the culture everywhere I went. Besides, I should be used to it...yeah yeah yeah.
Once loaded, the ride to Tete wasn't all that bad and there we caught a 2nd chapa to Ulongwe. This one was a bit cramped, with us having to pay for an extra seat for our stuffs and then cramming in alongside it. We arrived around 4, met up with Adrienne, the PCV we were crashing with. I love having free places to stay!
Today we will head to Senga Bay, crossing the border into Malawi. I am excited that we are 1. hitting another country and 2. finally farther north than Namibia. I feel like NOW we are getting 'away'.
1/20-1/26
The morning we left Ulongwe we did s in tyrpical African fashion - waiting on a ride, getting all packed in, only to have him drive around the town trying to squeeze more people in and finally ended back where we started, waiting yet again. Eventually we made it to the border, exchanged some money, crossed easily and walked a bit before stopping to eat.
After several attempts - and I do mean several - at ordering off the menu, only to have the waiter continually return to inform us they were out of this or that, we settled on fried egg sandwiches before returning to the road to hike. It wasn't long before we were whisked into a combi, bags crammed behind the backseat with the door tied closed behind. Adrienne had warned us about the 'touts' - guys who are supposed to be offering their services as guides or porters but are actually working in groups to distract and rob. We had taken extra precautions that morning to keep all our valuables deep in our bags and I even used twine to tie my external zippers shut.
However...nothing prepared us for the reality. Upon arrival in Lilongwe, the driver of the combi stopped in the middle of nowhere - NOT actually at the combi rink. The bus was immediately bombarded with young men - touts. Eric and I got out immediately to guard our bags that were explosed in the back. The touts were undeterable and would push us around and even though we would push them back and yell for them to back off, the crowding in would continue. When everyone had left the combi the drive instructed us to get back in - he was going to drop us elsewhere. I found this strange - why hadn't he dropped us 'elsewhere' first? It was then that I noticed his 'helper' in the back near Eric's bag with the horde of guys. Later, he would tell us he was trying to help keep people from cutting into it, but we would agree he was in on the scam. Eric jumped out once again and unfortunately took his small camel pack with him. It was then, somehow, decided that we should put our bags into the combi. This didn't make sense to any of us but by then the driver had opened the back, exposing our stuff, with only Eric to shove the things into Nick. I admit, I was sort of frozen at the moment, not knowing exactly what I should do. The side door opened with many guys crowded around deeming daunting to push my way through and at the same time, I worried about people grabbing things from there.
As Eric was pushing his larger bag through the back, one of the guys unzipped his smaller pack and the contents spilled out on the ground. Some of the touts started grabbing for things and trying to kick other stuff farther under the combi. He was able to grab most things, but we discovered soon enough they had snagged his camera. We wanted the combie to stop immediately and let Eric out to go back, but they didn't or wouldn't. That was really where we figured they were in on it.
At the rink, he bolted, in vain, to return and retrieve his cam. I waited with our stuff, mace in hand, while Nick followed suit. That's when I noticed my tent was also missing. I was more concerned about Eric's camera - tents are replaceable, memories are not.
This is the point in the story where I have to bitch a little. I realized there is theft, all over the world, it's a given - especially if you are travelling. But when I hear repeatedly, about volunteers being robbed, by this method or that, I am infuriated. The mindset that 'white' = 'money' is a common thread running all the way through this unraveling continent. Whether being burgled or hounded for money - it just gets fucking old! If you are begging for food cause you are starving, thats one thing. But the majority of theft is just seen as a rectifier between the haves and have nots.
On the other side of the proverbial coin, theres the Buddhist principal of possession vs. suffering. That appointing owenership or saying 'that's mine' and attributing value to something material, only leads to problems. Any item can be broken, stolen, will age over time... My question to the universe is this - are we all meant to be monks? If I purchase something, say, a toaster. With that purchase comes certain expectations. I am going to get the best merchandise for my money. the product will last me a certain length of time. The item will remain in my service until I see fit to be finished with it. Small expectations yes, but to me, NOT overly exaggerated.
So, when one of those are NOT met, yes, there is suffereing. Does that mean we have to let go of all those and go through life spending our money with no guarantees and the assumption that everything is temporary? Maybe in doing so, we would end up a less material society. Hmmm. As I write this, clarity is setting in a bit. Acceptance...still have to work on that one a bit.
Back at the combi rink, we very quickly caught a bus to Salima. Eric REALLY wanted to get out of Lilongwe, though we had initially planned on staying there one night. At Salima, I ran to the ATM for all 3 of us, bought some waters and peanut butter, and we snagged a ride to Senga Bay. Arriving there at dark, we discovered the marina we were staying at was 5k down the road. After stupidly turning down 3 bike taxis and then a car - we were still trying to figure out the Kwacha conversion - we trekked the unknown road on foot. 50 minutes later we arrived at Wheelhouse, settled in and slept. The next few days we spent chiling by the beautiful lake - with all of us a afraid to go in it. Between yoga, cards and exploring the area, we wiled away the time - happy to be prone for a few days.
After a failed attempt to arrange transport to lizard island
- which is supposed to have a very large population of monitor lizards - we bid farewell to the Wheel and made our way back to Salima and then to Nkhata Bay. We arrived - after many hours on the bus - once again, at dark. We immediately fell in love with this place. This little village, surrounding a gorgeous bay, is everything we thought Africa was supposed to be. Fisherman crowding the streets with the day's catch. Streetfood sold by colorful women with suckling babes. Caribbean style music blasting from around every corner. It's amazing!
- which is supposed to have a very large population of monitor lizards - we bid farewell to the Wheel and made our way back to Salima and then to Nkhata Bay. We arrived - after many hours on the bus - once again, at dark. We immediately fell in love with this place. This little village, surrounding a gorgeous bay, is everything we thought Africa was supposed to be. Fisherman crowding the streets with the day's catch. Streetfood sold by colorful women with suckling babes. Caribbean style music blasting from around every corner. It's amazing!The last few days have been spent exploring this beautiful place, enjoying the amazing food and music and finally, a fearless swim in the lake - Shisto be damned!! We've met up with some Malawan PCVs and hung out while picking their brains for things to see and places to stay as we continue to head north. We have been here for 2 nights and plan on making tonight our last. We'll see what happens.
1/27-1/28
Okay, so the last 24 hours, for me, has to go down in the record books as 'not the greatest'.
We awoke in Nkhata to a thunderstorm. It hasn't rained this year at all in Malawi but chooses the day we need to travel to do so. We wait it out an hour or so and when it finally lets up a bit, pack up and catch a ride to Mzuzu. Here, our plans were to get our US dollars and catch a combi to Livingstonia or Chitimba. It didn't happen.
Upon arrival, we started hitting the bacnks. Either they didn't have dollars OR they wouldn't give it to us because we did not have an account. In addition, Malawi has recently closed all of it's foreign exchange offices because of corruption. After getting a bit stressed out, we decided to break for lunch. During so, Nick checks with the hotel owner and I go to talk to the police. Neither one turned out to be very productive but the police at least referred us to the immigration office. We headed there after lunch.
The office was of very little help and actually laughted at me which made me want to hit someone. I try very hard to not enter 'victim status' but I just felt as though our hands were tied. It was then that the universe sent us our 3 boats...
David, a Swedish Jehovah's Witness (yes) was in the office and overheard our dilemna. He knew where we could illegally exchange money at a decent rate. He drove us to 2 different Indian shops to speak to their owners. 1 guy was out and the other was in prayer. We thanked David and waited for Mr. Tutla to finish with Allah.
Mr. Tutla informed us that no, he had no US dollars. We walked back to the first place to wait for the other guy. When he returned, he said he didn't have any but it was ZERO problem getting it at the border. By then, we had decided to stay the night in Mzuzu and get an early start the next day. Ash, the Indian guy, offered us a lift to the backpackers - boat #2.
We dropped out stuff and walked back into town to get food for dinner. We returned and enjoyed peanut butter sandwiches with beer and wine. We also met Gabriel (#3), a beautiful Malawin guy who offered to take our money, deposit into his account and then get the US money at his back for us. Wow. (in hindsight I'm not sure why we didn't do this). It was also funny that Eric and Nick were playing 'wingmen' and trying to get me laid, lol. I was seriously attracted to this guy and picked up on some gaydar but it's very difficult working through differences in culture to really know where another one stands. I ended up sleeping alone...yet again (kicking myself).
We awoke to rain once more but instead of waiting it out, packed up and left. We got to the combi rink, faced the usual yelling and pulling from the drivers and sat in a bus to Karonga, waiting for it to fill up. 2 hours later were on the road. The very slow road. It took us about 5 hours to go 200k. The silver lining was that the countryside was beautiful, some of the best I've seen in Africa. Malawi is amazingly fertile.
At Karonga, people were asking if we needed US dollars. Yes please. Everyone we spoke to wanted to charge us 18,000 Kwacha for 100.00. That's like paying 25 dollars for one hundred! We refused and got in a taxi to the border. There, we explained our dilemna to the Malawi customs and they said they would help us...YEAH! Only to discover they were just calling in one of the guys off the street who was asking an even higher price.
At this point, we ere concerned we would have to travel all the way back to Karonga, because there was not ATM at the border and we were going to have to suck it up and pay the extra money. Nick then headed over to the Tanzanian border to see if they could help us. He returned to tell us he found a guy who would exchange for 16,000. Now, remember, it's illegal to do this in either country but most police turn a blind eye.
So, we meet the guy and I very stupidly hand him 16,000 kwacha before seeing the US dollars. All of a sudden...chaos. Other men approached and started yelling and saying we owe more, that the exchange rate is higher. Somehow, in the process of us saying no and trying to get our money back...slight of hand...my guy stole 7,000 kwacha from me - which I didn't realize until we were in the immigration office for Tanzania. I've been lucky this trip - seein ghtat Eric has lost a camera and a tent - but I was still pissed off. It's 42 US dollars and with the tight budget I am on, it's a substantial portion.
At the office, we explain everything - minus the theft - and hope they can help us out. After an hour, an arrangement is made - with Nick even having to save Eric and I's butts with rand and wala! we were in yet another country. Dark was fast approaching as we walked to the combi rink. We squeezed (and I mean, seriously squeezed) onto a bus (standing) for the 3 hour ride to Mbeya. We got here at 10:30 pm, starving and exhausted, we checked into the only room available (1 full size bed for the 3 of us) and then walked to the ATM, in hopes of finding some food along the way. Both ventures were a success.
The night ended with beers, chicken and chips at Sugar Ray's where we laughed about the day, lamented about not seeing Gabriel naked, lol, and the boys discussed in detail the beauty of African women's asses. Life? what's next?
1/29 - 2/2
We spent 2 full days in Mbeya, enjoying really cheap street food and purchasing train tickets for the long haul to Dar. We had to switch hotels and the second one was a bit gross. The water coming out of the pipes went from cloudly to brown to black and then back to those assortment of colors. None of us wanted to bath in it, let alone brush our teeth. On Saturday, we got a taxi ride to the station, in order to be there an hour before departure. Who are they kidding? We arrived at 2, was supposed to leave at 3 and finally boarded and started heading to Dar at 8.
We had some dinner and then slept. Surprisingly I didn't get motion sickness. The next day...the longest day, we ate, played cards, drank beer. When the train was going through the National Park, we saw giraffe, elephants, zebra, wildebeast, antelope, warthogs....it was by far the best 'non' safari I had been on. We arrived in Dar around 8 pm with no bookings and a tad fearful of being robbed. We sucked it up and paid for a taxi...that we had to end up pushing to get started...and arrived at Jambo Lodge. We were sort of in a race with some other whities to get a room, because everything was booked. WE managed to get the very last room!
The last couple of days we've explored the city, I went to the museum, we've had some amazing local food and today got our tickets for the boat ride to Zanzibar tomorrow. We also made the decision to skip Rwanda and Uganda. Eric is a bit sad about that, but Nick and I are really ready to leave Africa behind us. I am way stoked for Egypt, Israel/Jordan and of course Europe.
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)
